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Wabash, calico, and discharge prints

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hollows View Drop Down
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    Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 10:13am
Seems like a subject worthy of its own thread.  

Lately I'm crazy for wabash stripe, so I'll kick off the thread with some photos of some pieces I own and comparisons between fabrics.



Freewheeler's Longshoreman



Flat Head DV-01WR



Rising Sun Brotherhood



Caps from Pherrow's left, and Workers/K&TH right



From left to right here...

Freewheelers, a thickish twill with a really crisp and bright discharge.  The twill has a bit of texture so the ridges show some early fading.  My favorite of the fabrics I think

Flathead, this one is straight up denim, the print is fuzzy, irregular, and large compared to the others, but very interesting up close.  Definitely the least "authentic".

Pherrow's, a medium weight twill.  The discharge on this one isn't as bright as I would like, the dots are noticeably light blue rather than white, but the construction is good, and the indigo looks rich and ready to fade, with a bit more variation than the others which are mostly uniform dark indigo.

Workers/K&TH, the lightest of the fabric weights, and presumably the most "authentic", given Takashi Tateno's reputation.  Dark, uniform indigo, bright crisp discharge.  A close second behind the Freewheeler's fabric for me.

Rising Sun, this one is a wabash chambray, which I have never seen used by anyone else.  RS also did some wabash duck a while back, both are really cool, not at all "authentic" as far as I know, but well executed and unique.

I've been hunting for the ideal wabash coat for a while now.  There are a lot of variations on that theme, and I'm not sure yet which is THE one for me.

I like the Pherrow's version a lot, this one has great details, I just wish their discharge was a bit brighter:



Alright, hope that's a good start.  Bring on the "discharge" jokes.
I make things out of leather.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote FormFollowsFunction Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 10:55am
Great Thread Hollow's

I love the Flat Head vest!

The Longshoreman's are a really nice pant too, did you get much shrinkage?

Longshoreman rear

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote hollows Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 1:01pm
I haven't washed mine yet, but I'm pretty sure John said there would be minimal/no shrinkage with that fabric.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ishmael Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 4:12pm
I wasn't all that interested in Wabash. Til two days ago when I saw a very well worn pair of those FW longshoreman pants at Amerika-ya in Ueno. A thing of beauty. Should have taken a photo......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SLAB2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 7:08am
I love any kind of discharge print; I'd like to rock a Wabash pants but not sure I can pull off that look
so far I own a Freewheelers steifel star shirt, Workers polka dot and wabash shirts and mr freedom rancheros shirt. I plan to add a Joe McCoy's Wabash shirt to that when I have some spare $ laying around
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rnrswitch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 9:05am
I've had a couple freewheelers wabash print pants and jacket and I have had some eWorkers wabash stuff.  i would put the freewheeler's stuff as more authentic.  I have handled (briefly) some original stifel wabash stripe pants and a stifel polka dot shirts.  The freewheelers stuff is almost indistinguishable.  The warehouse stuff is also pretty damn close. 

For wabash jackets, I think you have to go with freewheelers.


Too bad your momma's a bitch, cuz I totally coulda been your daddy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hollows Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 10:22am
Interesting!  Thanks for the info, switch.

And I think you're right about Freewheeler's jackets, if they make more of the blanket lined ironalls wabash, I might pounce.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatpattern Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 10:25am
Who got that 115x15 1/2 piece of stifel that was on ebay recently? Anybody here? I bid but didn't quite bid enough. It went cheap, 350 something maybe. Big piece of stifel plus a smaller piece.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xallanx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 10:52am
I bid on that too, but a bit more than I was able to pay right now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote *lefty* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 11:34am
ebay items, none mine


These were up for a very short time a few weeks ago, but were quickly pulled.







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