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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2019 at 11:02pm
Originally posted by julian-wolf julian-wolf wrote:

Thanks, Flash.

Those jeans in your link seem funny for a Wartime pair—the arcs make sense, but I didn't expect to see suspender buttons or a crotch rivet…and they're made from a right-handed denim! Lee was all over the place. I've got a lot to learn.


If you think about the working environment in these garment factories, everyone would have been on piecework therefor no matter what the outcome the general consensus would be 'fuck it! get them out the door and we get paid' so if it was your job to attach the buttons and your tray ran dry you'd attach owt rather than wait (unpaid) for a re-stock.
Shit! ive attached two red tabs..what you gunna do, bin them? they weren't high end garments where accuracy and quality were ever taken into consideration, i wouldn't be surprised by any kind of 'mistakes' from any of the manufacturers, i'm sure the consensus would be if the buttons hold your fly together they've succeeded as buttons, their concern wouldn't be the poor brand marketer of the future who was trying to neatly pigeonhole every era.
Shit! ive hammered in a crotch rivet and its 1947 Angry
Shit! ive gone and used 6 different types of denim...Na, that's probably going too far..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2019 at 11:40pm
Since the threads active ... any updated on the 46’s OO ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 1:43am
Not much to report old chum..

They were tagged 32 32 so i expected the hem to shrink to just over 31.5 in tune with most tagged 34" leg SC's (which shrink to 33.5) the deep top block would have resulted in a perfect hem for me.

Alas they only shrank to just over 33" which resulted in the bucket cuffs, insidentally i like but once the waist had loosened off the sag resulted in a somewhat larger cuff than i was anticipating so i rang around to find a Union Special chainstitcher who could match the thread using 100% cotton, SoaS fitted the bill (they claim to hem 5000 pairs/yr, sounds a bit optimistic to me) they came back a couple of days ago, the thread match is bloody perfect!
I only had a trim..


Ive given them another dunk in a bucket of very hot water to settle the hem (keeping the patch above the surface) and thery're dripping all over the floor at work as i speak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2019 at 1:57am
The texture of my filthy SC47 work jeans, excuse the crappy point and squirt camera.



+ Vintage 60's ringer tee and RMC military sweat


Im a 24hr Cane'r nowadays..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2019 at 12:49am
Originally posted by Flash Flash wrote:

Imo the coin pocket doesn’t look right for a ww2 era pair , most of the ww2 lee’s I’ve seen have The coin pocket in more of a central position ( like Levi’s ) and didn’t have rivets

Here is a vintage example
http://vintage-mushroom.net/?pid=138554466
 


Ive just been looking at Lee Japans own repro's trying to find the closest resemblance

The Cowboy 101 '42 model coin pocket is as described above


The Riders 101 '44 model coin pocket is the same construction as Julians Sugarcanes

I'm not saying this repro is correct but it would be a strange coincidence for both manufacturers to mistakenly repro the same coin pocket on a 44 model

I'm quite enjoying learning some new denim biz (its been a while) ive never taken too much notice of Lee in the past, i'm starting to really appreciate them.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2019 at 12:59am
Same here mate , always been more of a Levi’s man

Those second ones are quite interesting and I’d love to know if it’s only the one rivet on the coin pocket , I can’t be 100% sure of this but I think the restrictions at the time were limiting the use of rivets and bartacks to 10 ( not counting belt loops )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2019 at 1:10am
I seem to remember reading years ago (maybe in one of the RMC yearbooks) thet the restrictions were levied more heavily on Levi's than Lee because Lee convinced the WPB that their jeans were only used for work (rivets were essential) whereas Levi's crossed over between work and play (fashion) hence Levi's had to paint the arcs to save thread and Lee didn't, also Lee sold less units.
Its hazy though, you know what its like.. you find some new info and some old info gets pushed out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2019 at 1:29am
Originally posted by Flash Flash wrote:

Same here mate , always been more of a Levi’s man

Those second ones are quite interesting and I’d love to know if it’s only the one rivet on the coin pocket , I can’t be 100% sure of this but I think the restrictions at the time were limiting the use of rivets and bartacks to 10 ( not counting belt loops )


Image result for Lee 1944 riders
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2019 at 1:30am
I know that Lee and Wrangler Had a lot more military contracts than Levi’s so that probably played into that as well , as far as I know they only made cold weather parkas

I always thought Levi’s had a hand in making denim garments for the navy but it’s just a bit of a long running myth , where it came from was the fact that cone made the denim for the navy garments but they were stitched by some other company ( not Levi’s )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Flash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2019 at 1:32am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

Originally posted by Flash Flash wrote:

Same here mate , always been more of a Levi’s man

Those second ones are quite interesting and I’d love to know if it’s only the one rivet on the coin pocket , I can’t be 100% sure of this but I think the restrictions at the time were limiting the use of rivets and bartacks to 10 ( not counting belt loops )


Image result for Lee 1944 riders


Thanks for the confirmation , keen eye on ya
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