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Roy

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anonymous

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote Denimetc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 11:45am
I have pair of what I think was called "Special Fit" that is quite slim (at least in Roy's terms). I was wondering if this new pair is based on these?

It says "Hell Yeah" in the middle of that patch



Too much Denim - too little time...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shorty Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2019 at 5:13pm
Looks like ROY has at least one more run in him.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Broark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2019 at 5:19pm
I'm glad for that, looking forward to seeing what they are.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sansome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2019 at 7:28pm
I’ve heard talk about - keeping on running, for the foreseeable future.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blood&Thunder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 6:47am
I could go for one more shirt run.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote illumin8em Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2019 at 8:58pm
Before I waste my time and give these a hot wash any chance someone has a size 32 in the White Oak Commemorative farewell pair that they'd trade for my size 33? Cold soaked, waist hot soaked, worn once, cuffed once. I accidentally messed up the top of the patch hot soaking but it's still there.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Broark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2019 at 3:31am
Looks like Roy's got another pair coming out for the SESF relaunch. Nice patchwork pocket bags.
Hope to check out a pair in person while I'm there, the R01 cut suits me nicely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Denimetc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2019 at 12:57pm
Yeah, saw those pictures of the next version of R01’s. It’s a great fit indeed. I have the first run of them and for me they are definitely Winter jeans. It’s got something to do with that black seed Cone fabric that is not heavy oz but just WARM.
Too much Denim - too little time...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (13) Thanks(13)   Quote Broark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 6:00am
Figured I would post there here as well as sufu since not everyone reads both.

My girlfriend and I went out to the Bay Area for the Mega Self Edge party (she was such a trooper for putting up with all my denim stuff all weekend), before we went out there I had sent Roy a note that I was going to be in town if he wanted to meet up and he agreed.
The night of the party we walked down to the new shop I saw Roy was there, went up to him and told him who I was he was like "what happened to you?! I thought we were supposed to hang out!" but we had only gotten in late the night before. So we decided to meet up the next afternoon at this workshop.

We ended up hanging out there for about three hours, talking about: denim and vintage sewing machines, denim experts and historians and all their claims of knowledge as fact, baseball and how much San Francisco Giants fans hate Mark Melancon (as a Braves fan I had no idea what we got ourselves into...), Coach Orgeron and how terrifying he seemingly is, fashion and how it's mostly marketing at the end of the day, living a simple life, learning from trial and error, how Roy didn't used to have a bunch of Roy jeans and now he's made himself a ton out of all these small sample rolls of different fabrics he has laying around, stretching unsanforized fabrics out pre-soak and then grading the denim based on shrinkage and stretch percentage for different parts of the jeans (this was ingenious actually, but very time consuming and wouldn't make sense for a production run of jeans but he did it on a pair of his own and they fit him just the way he likes), how he has stopped so many projects halfway through because he wasn't happy with it for some reason or another, how he feels like he needs to love what he makes because you can't make everyone happy but if he's happy with it then he knows at least one person is happy, how sad he is that Cone has closed and how the bounce of their wooden floors is what really made their denim special, how he made 150 pairs of jeans in a 34 day timespan working 16 hour days, meeting different denim people like Ono-san (rebuilt.jp on Instagram, works for YM Factory) and how when he met Roy and looked at his machines he was amazed at how wrong Roy was using all his different machines.

Sorry for rambling, but our conversations was all over the place and I figured the best way to get it all out is to just put it out there how I remember.

Here's some photos, I could've spent all day just taking photos of all the notes he's made to himself and drawings all over the place. The lighting in his workshop is really amazing.
Roy actually showed us how the free-hand embroidering Singer works and it's pretty incredible.
He pumps the base with his foot and maintains the width of the stitch with a lever controlled by his knee. He said this might be the most time consuming process out of everything else.



This is a small roll of indigo dyed duck canvas from Cone. The interesting thing is that it wasn't dyed by Cone, but another company afterwards that is out of business.
Later Cone tried to develop the same fabric and dye it themselves but it wasn't the same. You'll see it used by Rouge Territory, Tellason, Left Field and other brands, but it just wasn't as good as this stuff. The selvedge ID looks like a wabash stripe.
He was going to make a shirt out of this stuff at one point, but I don't think he had enough fabric and the dying company closed long before Cone shut their doors.

his is a pair of left hand twill jeans Roy made for himself where he experimented with the stretching and shrinking of different panels of fabric to get the shrinkage under control.
He would take the waistband pieces, stretch them over time and measure how much they would stretch before sewing, and then calculate the shrinkage based on a swatch of the fabric.
This in a sense is like sanforizing the fabric almost, but without making it lose all it's depth and interesting features.
I think this fabric was made by Collect, but it looks a lot like Sugar Cane's 50/50 blend fabric.


Thanks for reading, it was pretty amazing to see the place where all these jeans and shirts I've had over all these years are made.
I look forward to the day when I can come back out to Oakland and meet up with Roy and talk for a few hours.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CSL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov 2019 at 9:11am
Very interesting. Thanks, Broark!
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