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Duke Mantee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 6:43am
The Coupen Brogue is a fantastic shoe - although I can barely recall a picture that does them justice.

RDT seem to vacillate between real classics and some fairly weird designs. Fortunately, with respect to some of the more 'unusual' designs, nearly every model (barring a select handful) is made in limited numbers and rarely repeated in that particular form.

The downside with the limited numbers (for me at least) is that I've missed out on a few models - the Lineman #100 in Black CXL being one of those.

OO - at first I thought the shoes you were laughing at was the 'Sloth' given the colour. It's a side gore mid-cut boot . . . and is a Horween leather . . . but it's an ugly mofo every which way (especially since I have a particular dislike of the increasingly lazy use of vibram wedge soles - which I consider to be the devils work generally) - but on second looks it can't be, so I'm at a loss, although I've never seen RDT use man made materials on their uppers. I hope this isn't a new direction for them.

However, whether you like the styles or not, I know they build an excellent shoe. Materials and workmanship are top notch.

Edited by Duke Mantee - 29 Jun 2014 at 6:55am
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Duke Mantee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 8:37am
My collection such as it is - I'll get 'actual' pics up when I get the chance:


Bedford and Tribeca - calf upper and lining (from Japanese tanneries set up about 100 years back I'm led to believe), cork crepe sole, cat's paw heel



Giraffe - horween CXL, vibram #700, custom brass hardware



Coupen Brogue - horween CXL, double cork crepe sole, cat's paw heel, screwed steel toe plate

Edited by Duke Mantee - 29 Jun 2014 at 11:11am
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Duke Mantee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 11:47am
Quick pic - I've already flooded this thread

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hoggreaser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoggreaser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2014 at 4:11pm
I've been coveting the Coupen for ages now and posted them yonks back in the shoe thread - not that they attracted much interest back then! - just with all the sizing mistakes I've made in the past I never summoned up the courage to buy.

I did exchange a few e-mails with Katsuya Tokunaga of Craft Bank who suggested sizing down on the CBT02 last but I couldn't bring myself to try - as already mentioned, largest size appears to be 27cm / US 9 however from past experience taking this size down from my standard UK 9 (27.5cm / US 9.5 verging on 10) has never ever worked out right.... 


Edited by hoggreaser - 01 Jul 2014 at 4:32pm
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Duke Mantee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 3:53am
I'm a standard UK9 in most shoes - all my RDT (except the Giraffe @ 26.5) are size 27 and they fit beautifully.

But shoe sizing, and the fit, is such a tricky area.
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hoggreaser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoggreaser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 4:54am
Hi Duke, thanks for the reply. At last someone likes these as much as I do!!
 
Now that is interesting. Don't suppose you'd care to advise what make/models you wear in a UK 9? Also, whether any might be comparable in shape and fit to the Coupen?
 
I've tried and had numerous English shoes (and not liked any of them to be quite honest - and I am English so I can say that) however as a point of reference I'd say I was probably most comfortable in a size 9 in the broader country lasts from the usual Northampton brands. Wide, square forefoot and toe spread - hobbit feet.
 
In terms of US / Japanese footwear - off the top of my head none of the following worked for me in that they were all just too narrow.
 
Red Wing 875 'D' width (US9 - UK8!!!)
Yuketen Maine Guide 'E' width (US9)
Buzz Rickson M43 service shoe 'E' width (27cm / US9)
MASH M43 service shoe 'E' width (27cm / US9)
 
The Yuketen and RW where exceptionally tight, awful narrow tapered toe box Angry
 
 
edit - forgot, I really like the Teddy too, think it's a stitchdown contruction rather than GY welt, like a more rugged desert boot.
 
 
 
 
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Duke Mantee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 5:40am
Hoggy

I think the Coupen is a genuine classic. I'll definitely be adding a few more to my collection (I've already got the upcoming burgundy brogue on reserve).

The Yuketen Maine Guide I had a few years back were a UK8.5, but other previous and current (the Marcel) models have all been UK9

Also:

Viberg - 9 (they seem to have their own measurement despite being very close to UK sizing)
White's - US9
Alden - US9.5
Lone Wolf - 27 (although the toe box in some feel just a touch cramped)
Lofgren - 27
Trickers - UK8.5 - 9

Sorry dude - never owned RW and I don't know how your Buzz Rickson would compare but aren't they Lone Wolf?

The RDT Coupen seems to be a D/E width and the style means the toe box is fairly roomy.

Edited by Duke Mantee - 02 Jul 2014 at 6:19am
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hoggreaser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoggreaser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 8:19am
Hey Duke, thanks for the insight.
 
Annoyingly I didn't take reference of the UK conversion of the Yuketen I tried - and I can't off the top of my head recall whether Yuketen use a full or half size recommended conversion. Regardless, the moc toe box was too tapered and constrictive for my foot-tank-boats.
 
Yeh the BR are Toyo (so yes, the Lone Wolf people) but make use of their interpretation of the Munson last so I don't know how relevant that would be comparing against the Lone Wolf range like say the Mechanic which they told me make use of an early 40's work boot last of some description.
 
Trickers are a good frame of reference - I've previously had the Malton boot on the 4497 in a UK 9 (width 5) which at the time were OK but subsequently when I tried the same size again I found the toe box far too cramped, so my feet must have grown wider since. On the 4444 last shoes, I can squeeze into a 8.5 UK (5 width) which measure the same in length as the 4497 but offers more volume, although it isn't really right and the UK 9 is better if a little loose - rather hence my disatisfaction with English shoes, none of them are quite right. My foot basically resembles the typical Birkenstock sandal.
 
Anyway... that was quite a long winded summary, Sorry ... foot woes.


Edited by hoggreaser - 02 Jul 2014 at 8:24am
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Duke Mantee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 8:42am
Seems it's a width thing for you? Makes things tricky.

The RDT size 27 is definitely a little bigger than the Lone Wolf size 27, but whether there is sufficient width I couldn't say with certainty.

I need an UK8.75 for Trickers 4444 last.

But I suppose it's good news for me then, given how few are made, if there are less customers for my size ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoggreaser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2014 at 8:55am
Haha yes I suppose so.
 
Yes - it is mostly a width and foot depth issue (coupled with a block toe shape, no taper whatsoever) ... although I am now really wondering whether they might just work LOL
 
Do you get yours from Footmonkey or other Japanese web store? Or order directly from Craft Bank?
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