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MILITARIA PLUS (Workware,Cabourn,Kapital,etc)

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Category: Denimbro
Forum Name: Denimbro
Forum Description: general
URL: http://www.denimbro.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=4356
Printed Date: 01 Dec 2020 at 8:01am
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Topic: MILITARIA PLUS (Workware,Cabourn,Kapital,etc)
Posted By: mr randal
Subject: MILITARIA PLUS (Workware,Cabourn,Kapital,etc)
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 5:52pm








Replies:
Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 6:05pm
 I don't know that this style has an official name, here or abroad, but my sense of it really jelled when I saw images of Patrick Wong, owner of Workware Hong Kong, on IG. Wong's series of fits in oversized and slightly stylized military garments in his signature crisp, rounded silhouette really caught my interest. At the time I was feeling pretty bunt out on what the denim scene had come to (costly never-ending pursuit of the latest and greatest small batch 507 & '30s-'50s 5-pocket jeans). This, I thought, feels like something new and exciting.
 The components aren't exactly new- a lot of older military repros are cut sufficiently wide to fit this mold, and some brands like Kapital & Needles have been making oversized or funkily detailed military style garments for years, but this type of military reproduction intersected so nicely with the modern trend of oversized jackets and wide, cropped pants.

 I think the primary supplier of this style is Workware HK, but also Club Stubborn, Bronson Manufacturing Co, Kapital, Engineered Garments and a few others also tap this vein.


Posted By: dudewuttheheck
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:38pm
The pants might be too wide for me even, but I do love a lot of those jackets.


Posted By: CSL
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:45pm
Mark, Do you follow Dexter Store Firenze (dexter_store_firenze) on IG? He's doing stuff fairly close to the styles you posted here. 



Posted By: Iron Horse
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:07am
I suppose it’s an offshoot from what Nigel Cabourn has been doing? Either way getting quite popular.

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https://www.instagram.com/ritestuff_bryan/" rel="nofollow - IG: ritestuff_bryan


Posted By: Mr Black
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:27am
I’m particularly taken with this jacket by club stubborn

https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green" rel="nofollow - https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green

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www.sidewinderapparel.co.uk


Posted By: Mr. Q
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:57am
Originally posted by Mr Black Mr Black wrote:

I’m particularly taken with this jacket by club stubborn

https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green" rel="nofollow - https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green

StarStarStar I really like that design! Not sure about that lightweight nylon tho. I think Eastlogue also belongs here. 


^ I tried this on at Bloomingdale's (a special selection from their Korean buyer) and loved it, but it was also in a crinkly nylon and couldn't stand the whoosing sound it made everytime I moved. Confused


Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 1:52am
Iron Horse- you are very right, Nigel Cabourn is in many ways the poster child for this style. A lot of the offerings from Club Stubborn seem to be “homages” to cabourn items, though when both are tweaked versions of military pieces I guess the influence comes down to pointing to where to borrow?
He was certainly the first designer I know of to go so boldly into making casually worn, loosely cut military apparel into streetwear.

CSL & Mr Q- thanks, I’ll take a look at those.


Posted By: Blood&Thunder
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 6:36am
Eastlogue does some fantastic stuff.  The parka below is by them and I have been very happy with it.




Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:16am
B & T, in the spirit of this thread I have to point out that your pants are far too narrow. I don’t think you could get both feet through one pant leg, which is apparently mandatory for the look.
😉


Posted By: Blood&Thunder
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 9:31am
Haha!  I know it.  I think if you combined the legs on those jeans I might be close to the required width....  I can confidently say I do not own any pants that meet the width requirements of this style.  Never say never though I suppose.


Posted By: Noodle
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 9:51am
Funny like 10-20 years ago, guys walking around in army parkas etc. were rather looked down on, and now its all the rage...

Some items sure are wearable and quite a neat addition to ones wardrobe. Other stuff is just plain ridiculous.



Posted By: CSL
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:32pm
Originally posted by mr randal mr randal wrote:

B & T, in the spirit of this thread I have to point out that your pants are far too narrow. I don’t think you could get both feet through one pant leg, which is apparently mandatory for the look.
😉



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-6vfh2f4Gw" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-6vfh2f4Gw


Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 1:48pm
I’m reminded of what an odd host the dong show had- was he wasted or high or both?


Posted By: CSL
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 5:29pm
Chuck Barris. They made a movie about him not too long ago. Wasn't he a special agent or something?

Just read the wiki. Apparently the CIA Assassin stuff was just a fantasy that Barris made into a book.


Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by CSL CSL wrote:

Chuck Barris. They made a movie about him not too long ago. Wasn't he a special agent or something?


I read that he made the whole special agent thing up, wrote a book about being a special agent for the CIA.


Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 3:28pm



Workware HK m-51 Balloon pants, my favorite of their cuts.


Posted By: BlueTrain
Date Posted: 31 May 2020 at 3:12am
I have some rather wide-legged pants with pleats at the waist that I wear. They're French army pants from the 1950s and made of khaki drill cotton. They may not be quite as wide as some of those in the first few posts, though. They unfortunately have a button fly but are otherwise fine. They otherwise are about the same width as every army's issue pants in the 40s and 50s, as well as workwear. Well, actually, all pants during that period were made rather wide, especially after the war.
 
Anyone remember zoot suits?


Posted By: bartlebyyphonics
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 10:01am
soundman.jp can be possibly be added to this list... (though not oversizing much...)

I am most interested in the unearthing of camouflage designs... I am most partial to flecktarn... but also very much like this repro of 1950s uk 'brushstroke' version from soundman...


and a 1940s original on offer from vintage showroom...



Posted By: Noodle
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 11:23am
Nigel Cabourn did a whole range of these. Trousers, Vest, Jacket, Tie.
One can go full commando.


Posted By: likeacannon
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 12:45pm
I found a pair of old Korea-era 1205 khakis at a junk store and with a little tailoring I did they work great, taking in the leg a smidge and hemming them. They were originally meant to go over your pants as an extra layer. 



Posted By: Mr. Q
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 2:44pm
Originally posted by likeacannon likeacannon wrote:

I found a pair of old Korea-era 1205 chinos at a junk store and with a little tailoring I did they work great, taking in the leg a smidge and hemming them. They were originally meant to go over your pants as an extra layer. 

I'm digging those slippers


Posted By: BlueTrain
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 2:42am
If those are what I think they are, I was issued a pair in the mid-1960s when I was stationed in Germany. They were originally part of the 1943 combat outfit and later superseded by the kind with cargo pockets. I was issued a pair of those, too. They were unit clothing and were the property of the company you were assigned to. But I never heard anything called "chinos" when I was in. We were issued four sets of khakis, which were referred to as khakis and nothing else.


Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 9:49pm
https://flic.kr/p/2j9wz8V" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/2j9wz8V" rel="nofollow - hbt by https://www.flickr.com/photos/52982610@N06/" rel="nofollow - bottleswest , on Flickr


https://flic.kr/p/2j9sznr" rel="nofollow"> https://flic.kr/p/2j9sznr" rel="nofollow - hbt3 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/52982610@N06/" rel="nofollow - bottleswest , on Flickr


Korean war era HBT jacket...Found this a few years back, very little wear.


Posted By: BlueTrain
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 2:26am
Does it still have the so-called gas flap?
 
One old master sergeant was still wearing HBTs when I was in the army in the mid-60s.


Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 8:54am
Originally posted by BlueTrain BlueTrain wrote:


Does it still have the so-called gas flap?
 
One old master sergeant was still wearing HBTs when I was in the army in the mid-60s.


I believe it does, it does have this flappy thing.


Posted By: likeacannon
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 10:01am
Originally posted by Mr. Q Mr. Q wrote:

Originally posted by likeacannon likeacannon wrote:

I found a pair of old Korea-era 1205 chinos at a junk store and with a little tailoring I did they work great, taking in the leg a smidge and hemming them. They were originally meant to go over your pants as an extra layer. 

I'm digging those slippers

Thanks Mr. Q! They're normally just house slippers, but I occasionally forget I'm wearing them and leave he house for errands.


Posted By: likeacannon
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 10:04am
Originally posted by BlueTrain BlueTrain wrote:

If those are what I think they are, I was issued a pair in the mid-1960s when I was stationed in Germany. They were originally part of the 1943 combat outfit and later superseded by the kind with cargo pockets. I was issued a pair of those, too. They were unit clothing and were the property of the company you were assigned to. But I never heard anything called "chinos" when I was in. We were issued four sets of khakis, which were referred to as khakis and nothing else.

Great background, thanks BlueTrain! Good catch on the chinos v. khakis, I didn't even catch that anachronism.




Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 10:59pm

M-51 pants, vintage




Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2020 at 4:36pm

Club Stubborn H1 vest and flying shorts 2.0. Both excellent for summer- the flying shorts especially are  a nice lightweight nylon and are getting a lot of wear as the weather warms up.

Where'd I put my lighter? Too many pockets is always a good thing...


Posted By: BlueTrain
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 2:11am
Don't get too worked up over the names of things. Sometimes things pick up a name years afterwards that was never used originally, like those cargo pants I mentioned. When they were originally issued in the 1950s, they were officially called field pants and I never heard them called anything else. Reenactors buy M41 field jackets (sometimes called a Parson jacket). They were officially termed a "field jacket." The M43 outfit had a "field coat" (followed by later variations) that was forever afterwards called a field jacket.



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