Print Page | Close Window

Machines & Materials

Printed From: denimbro
Category: Denimbro
Forum Name: Denim/workwear research
Forum Description: historical
URL: http://www.denimbro.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=245
Printed Date: 21 Apr 2019 at 11:23am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Machines & Materials
Posted By: Texas
Subject: Machines & Materials
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 9:50pm
If there's already a thread on this, feel free to delete this. Basically a general thread for information on sewing machines and fabric.

Right now I'm trying to gather some recommendations for an overlock machine. Will an old JUKI be the best bang for my buck?



Replies:
Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 10:27pm
It depends on what you're trying to do.  I assume make jeans?  

There are a lot of overlock machines out there, some cheap.  Some not so cheap.

pretty much any old one will do, unless you're going for something specific and if you have a set budget.

As to the thread, I think it's a great idea.


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Texas
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2012 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

It depends on what you're trying to do.  I assume make jeans?

Initially I want to use it to fool around with sweat and T-shirt patterns. I don't need an industrial motor and table.


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2012 at 9:42am
most overlock machines don't need an industrial motor or table as they're so small.  But do buy an industrial machine though.  Don't buy a home model baby lock, as you can find the real ones for equal or less money.




-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Texas
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2012 at 10:51pm
Thanks, Happy Hooligan. I'm in no rush, so finding an industrial machine at a good price shouldn't be too difficult.


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2012 at 7:48pm
I'm about to drop a ton on one machine.   Well, I guess "a ton" is subjective, but for me it's a ton.   Have to wait till the deal goes through until I say what the machine is, but I've been looking forward to getting one for a long time....

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2012 at 7:54pm
Does it start with U and end with nionspecial? :)

-------------
I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2012 at 7:56pm
no actually it starts with an S and ends with a inger

I'm not spending two tons... just a ton...


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: attackwithstones
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2012 at 8:03pm
TON = 1 GRAND

-------------
Sell me your Mister Freedom stuff. :)


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2012 at 10:42pm
Just delivered tonight...  Can't wait to get this thing going...  Long, long wait trying to find one.



-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Littledog
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2012 at 9:08am
I thought I might throw out this machine question.  I found an Industrial Singer 241-11 and 241-12 on craigslist for $95 each.  I've checked out the specs and have downloaded the manual.  They are industrial light to medium weight and a medium to medium heavy weight machines, respectively.  They are a bit of a drive away but not so bad for the price.  Any thoughts from you all out there?  I am hoping to amp up my skills and speed by switching over to industrial machines.  I will be making pretty much the whole range of clothing that we post here.  Work shirts, pants, jackets, light leather work.  If you can register an opinion I would be greatful.   


Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2012 at 9:14pm
HH, that thing is a beautiful monster!  Looks like someone grafted a sewing machine onto a Muncie 4-speed.  I'm not familiar with that model.  What's its specialty?
 
Littledog, there seems to be a lot of internet chatter about folks coming up with those machines and wanting to dump 'em cause they're not worth anything (probably because they don't embroider Disney characters Wacko.  I would think that if you are doing something that just needs a single needle lock stitch, you'd be hard pressed to find something better out there.  There's a ton of them still around because they just won't die.  I think there's no reverse though, so you've got to consider thread ends.


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2012 at 9:51pm
Littledog,  either machine would work fine for just about any normal sewing you're planning.  I personally don't like the self-oiling machines as I like to be adding oil to mine through the little holes all over.  But the price is fine.  You can find them cheaper like 50-75 if you really look around, but a bird in the hand... get one as you really don't need both and when you find something better, upgrade.  Go with the 12 model if you have a chance as it's the most heavy duty.

Joseph.. that is the Singer 99W.  Keyhole machine (the keyholes in your jeans for buttons)  It takes two people to pick it up.   It's the largest in volume machine I own.   They are super rare as most places dumped them when the newer keyhole machines came out.   I still have to mount it to a table add the motor, "gear unit"  and then figure out how the thing works...


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Littledog
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2012 at 3:46am

Thanks you guys for the input.  Good things to think about.  Congrats on the keyhole HH.  I am a little green with envy.  But baby steps.  Joseph, thanks for the headsup on the no reverse.  Not sure if that is a deal-breaker.  I will have to think hard.  I was planning on getting the 12 because it is heavier duty.  I will do some searching around before I jump in.  As I said it is a bit of drive away.  I wont make the drive unless I am confident I will come home with the machine.  Thanks again.  I let you know what I figure out.  I may be bugging you further in the near future.  Cheers. 



Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 9:23pm
I've never seen the Singer Keyhole, only the Reese (101s?).  I hope you get 'er hummin'.  ROY convinced me to try hand stitched button holes for awhile, and hopefully later this winter I may even have time to knock some out.  But for me I still hanker hard for a feed off the arm.  I've almost but not quite gotten a few.  Union Special, Singer, Rimoldi, but some snag always comes up, and I can't afford to just pay for a sure thing.


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2012 at 10:40pm
Someday I know this sewing machine bug is going to get me, and my wallet lives in fear.

Anyone have any thoughts on this Sailrite machine?

http://www.sailrite.com/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine" rel="nofollow - http://www.sailrite.com/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Walking-Foot-Sewing-Machine

I would probably not be making jeans, so I don't need any fancy stitches, but I do want power and reliability.


-------------
I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: flatpattern
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2012 at 7:08am
It seems expensive for what it does.  Do you need it to be portable?  You can buy a used walking foot Juki for probably 500 bucks that would sew circle's around this.  Not many people use a zig-zag stitch, that would be useless for me.

A walking foot machine is going to be powerful enough for anything that comes your way.  They are made to stitch heavy leather in multiple layers.  Denim is usually done w/ no walking foot.  I stitch 2-3 gauge latigo on mine like it's butter.

hope that helps.


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2012 at 8:53am
That's fair, though it seems like it can be gotten for about $700, which is a bit less than list price but still a lot more than a vintage singer.  The zigzag seems nice for bar tacks, which is the only thing I really want aside from nice straight stitching.

Portable is a big plus as my work space is already taking over my home, and any machine sewn cloth projects are going to be a hobby (at first at least), so it would be nice to be able to put it away.

I've been considering a 15-91 as the cheaper alternative, they seem to be well liked.


-------------
I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2012 at 12:36pm
the 15-91 is THE workhorse.   They're cheap (100 or less if lucky) and do everything.   I personally use the 201-2 as my domestic for small jobs as it's just like the 15-91 but drop in bobbin which I like.  It can tackle 8 layers of 12 oz denim with a light tough and help but it gets through it.  

If you're diligent you will find walking foot industrials (singer 111w's) from 75-300 on tables with motors...


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2013 at 9:40am
Just got this last night...  Looks to have been sitting for a while, no rust, just age...  really looking forward to figuring this one out and using it!


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Littledog
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2013 at 11:34am
Looks like fun.  Looks like one of those freehand type embroidery machines.  Chainstich?


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2013 at 11:36am
yes, a singer 114w103  singers first chain stitch, free hand turn the handle and go machine.

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Littledog
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2013 at 11:51am
Color me Green.  Sweet find.  By the way, I am holding out on those Singer 241s.  The no reverse would really crimp my style with finish work.  I am going to save my coin and keep my eye out.  For now the Gorilla Singer 66 will keep me moving. 


Posted By: illumin8em
Date Posted: 01 May 2013 at 2:56pm
I am now the steward of My Great Uncle Johnny's Singer 201-2, bought in 1952, in my hometown, which is strange because him lived an hour or two away with no family in this area.

I wasn't able to make it there before they cut one of the cords, the one from internal knee mechanism that I am not familiar with. I will look in to that. I will return to remove it properly from the cabinet.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/illumin8em/media/682324b3-f453-4efe-9d8f-f064f32f7349_zps5bad3e22.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/illumin8em/media/52e15bcd-0f7d-447e-b316-ef7d8221facb_zps35c71032.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/illumin8em/media/771c4624-14b1-47ee-b077-be942db26959_zps5acd07b9.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/illumin8em/media/9a4236c7-b36f-4be3-a7f8-976a483c253a_zps234d2970.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/illumin8em/media/43079588-8fa1-4280-bfa3-16ce7033e610_zps69f6cc73.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/illumin8em/media/9585f8fa-e39a-48a2-8827-be70ed05ea46_zpsa76923d9.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 01 May 2013 at 3:16pm
Just saw this one from your other post.   You can buy cheap foot pedals for it if you don't put it back in the cabinet.   Original bakelight pedals are kind of pricy.   But as long as it has the three prong it fits most of the machines... 15-91, 221 and 201 all fit the same pedal.

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 01 May 2013 at 4:29pm
Very cool find, Justin.  That's one of the models that I've been looking closely at every 4 months or so when my sewing machine interest-cycle peaks.

One of these days I'll follow through.


-------------
I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: denimdart
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 4:43am
Just got this. 
Planning to some denim darning repairs.
It's a 222K  model made in 1955, in Kilbowie Scotland.


Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:07pm
Some time ago, I was at the antique mall and spotted this from about twenty feet away.  I nearly knocked over some old ladies in my haste to lay claim to it.  Alas, up close it was only a false graal to tempt this Galahad, and it was merely a 39200J.  I shouldn't cry too much, 'cause if you need an overlocker, this is the one to have, and supposedly the J was the model for heavier trousers and such.  It's all gunked up with wool lint and yechh, but she turns over real purty-like.  It reminds me of my early production Walther P38.  It's just got this dense, oily, slidey, clicky-ness that makes you realize what-for the hubbub with these old machines.  Too bad it's way down on my list of priorities for refurbishment, but opportunities wait for no man.  I seem to forever be buying to fix up in a nebulous future.
http://s945.photobucket.com/user/Orangesquid/media/sufu/littleUS39200J_zpsb615e420.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: attackwithstones
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:11pm
Good story. Keep us up to date on that bad boy and your sewing ventures

-------------
Sell me your Mister Freedom stuff. :)


Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 12:21pm
Here's the reason for having to pass on the recent secret jean group buy.  As much as I might regret missing out, I expect this to ameliorate the pangs. (assuming I can build the courage to tell the wife that this is sitting in the garage...)
The Yamato DT-30, which is a part for part clone of the Union Special 35800 three needle, off the arm chainstitch lap seamer, with differential feed and gear driven puller made in Japan.  Sort of the sewing machine version of the Sugar Cane clone of the late '40s 501. 
http://s945.photobucket.com/user/Orangesquid/media/sufu/yamato2small_zps87b9191d.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
The stand is a legit Union Special, and is a freakin' beast!  It took three of us to load the thing in the truck, and when I unloaded by myself, even with a good sized handtruck, I almost lost it.  Now I know why these things cost so much to freight.  It's currently set up for two needles, but only needs the last looper to run three.
http://s945.photobucket.com/user/Orangesquid/media/sufu/Yamato1small_zps2083b602.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">
After about an hour to oil, lube and figure out the threading and tensions, I ran my first ever chainstitch lap seam.  Oh, baby!  I had to check the ground on the power cord, because the feeling that went up my spine was definitely electric!  It was much quieter than I expected, and it buzzed through some very heavy denim like butter with a perfect stitch right out of the gate.  My seam on the other hand will need a lot of work, the fabric ended up rather skewed.  Part of it was the fact that this was my first ever attempt, and I was more interested if the machine would sew without binding up, and that the folder is too large.  The folks that I got the machine from were sewing extra heavy waterproof nylon, and the folders they gave me let the denim slop around too much.  So next step is more appropriate folders, and some better thread.
http://s945.photobucket.com/user/Orangesquid/media/sufu/lapseamsmall_zps4cbbcde6.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Mr Black
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 1:03pm
Hmmm, now i can see why you passed up on the jeans. Good stuff and good luck with the wife. We feel your pain.

-------------
www.sidewinderapparel.co.uk


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 1:15pm
nice machine!   Does it have two lap guides on it?

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 3:09pm
The second one just happened to be sitting on the arm when I took the picture.  It's too bad they're both really too large as they're not the cheapest attachment. I'm not sure what size to shoot for and I'll probably have to get a couple and experiment.  I'm completely stoked, but it all has to be put aside until I can get a little more house reno done.  And in my case, it'll probably be a while...


Posted By: Sardine
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 3:40pm
Originally posted by Joseph Hill Joseph Hill wrote:

The second one just happened to be sitting on the arm when I took the picture.  It's too bad they're both really too large as they're not the cheapest attachment. I'm not sure what size to shoot for and I'll probably have to get a couple and experiment.  I'm completely stoked, but it all has to be put aside until I can get a little more house reno done.  And in my case, it'll probably be a while...
This will give you time to think up some projects. Congrats!


Posted By: Texas
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2013 at 6:47pm
You know what would be cool is if everyone chipped in for a loom and ran batches of seasonal denim & duck for the members.


Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2013 at 10:42pm
^Check out the Michael Masterson interview.
 
Anyone good at setting tensions on chain stitch machines?  I thought I was pretty close, but it seems I actually wasn't.  With a lock stitch, it's not hard to tell what is off, and which direction you need to go.  With this chainstitch, everything seems to work, but then you realize there are problems, but it's not clear whether the threads need more or less tension.  The tension knobs aren't like a home machine either that go from one to ten, these just go round and round.  Any rules of thumb for ball-parking?


Posted By: proulxsie
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 5:49am
Just a suggestion for people with questions about machines, old and new... "Cowboy Bob" at Toledo Sewing Machines has been in the business for his whole life. I got his info from the leatherworker forum.  Give him a call at 866-362-7397.

I just chatted with him for a bit about finding a machine that can do canvas, denim, and leather up to 1/2" thickness and use a range of thread sizes, up to pretty thick stuff.  I would love an older machine, but I think I learned my lesson with my old motorcycle that I'd rather to not have to futz and worry and just have it work out of the gate. (Though I'm still in love with my old motorcycle.)

According to him I should keep my eye out for a good deal on a Consew 206 or a Chandler 406.


-------------
----
proulxsie.tumblr.com
instagram.com/kateproulx


Posted By: Shorty Long
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 7:00am
attention "cone"heads...did Cone ever supply canvas for converse chuck taylor all-stars?


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 9:41am
Proulxsie  : have you looked at the vintage Singer 111w154 or 111w155.   You probably can find one around 200-300  

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Boise
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 9:49am
This would be a nice start, you would need to build the unit to your liking.
http://boise.craigslist.org/bfs/3925305930.html" rel="nofollow - http://boise.craigslist.org/bfs/3925305930.html


-------------
He's like a goddamn seagull.


Posted By: proulxsie
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 11:45am
Thanks Hooligan & Boise... after looking into the consew and chandler... I do want to find something that can use a 277 thread size for my leather stuff. Can you use thicker thread like that on the singer? Also wasn't able to find something like that in my area for sale booooooo

Then maybe I don't need to invest so much cash into the textile sewing machine.


-------------
----
proulxsie.tumblr.com
instagram.com/kateproulx


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 12:28pm
I'm pretty sure the singers can handle it.  If you're in NYC you shoudl be able to find one without much trouble 

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: proulxsie
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 12:44pm
I found a manual for the 31-15 saying it can do up to a size 23 needle... which equates to 207 thread size. Wonder if it could go over that?

-------------
----
proulxsie.tumblr.com
instagram.com/kateproulx


Posted By: proulxsie
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 12:50pm
Or maybe I need to stop being a picky pain in the ass!

-------------
----
proulxsie.tumblr.com
instagram.com/kateproulx


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2013 at 12:58pm
the 31-15 is a great machine but made more for taylor work.   The 111w is a walking foot machine and can handle leather, canvas and the like much better.




-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: russell
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2013 at 7:09pm
Don't know if you're still looking for a machine, but I've had good luck with an old Singer 96-10.  Doesn't do too well with shirting weight, but goes through multiple layers of 14oz denim and canvas with ease. 

Singer 111w's and 112w's are good as well, though you most often the ones you find are needle feed, rather than true walking foot.  Still a solid piece of equipment.


Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2015 at 2:50pm
Went by Roy's to check out this old sail cloth he came across while buying a few old machine off an old-long gone sail factory.....We were both wondering how long they made this sort of cloth.....It looks old-could this cloth have been made up to the 1950's-70's? Perhaps the person formally known as Conehead could shed some light on this subject?









Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 12:14pm
do you have more pics.  I love that bottom machine.  

-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2015 at 2:12pm
Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

do you have more pics.  I love that bottom machine.  


No- I think that's all I have- I believe the machine was being traded- I remember this, only because it had a strange story attached to it- I guess a friend of Roy's, sews belt loops on bibles bound for El Salvidor? Go figure.....I was focused on the fabric, and not so much the Machine- Sory I couldn't help.


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2016 at 3:23am
I know this thread is pretty old but I was wondering if someone could tell me the merits and vices of a Singer 99W100 for sewing button holes. Will this machine sew denim OK, or do I need to find a 110 or a 130.

-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: massivebonanza
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2016 at 5:48am
Originally posted by attackwithstones attackwithstones wrote:

TON = 1 GRAND

No no no, a ton is a £100

A monkey is £500

And a grand is a grand!


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2016 at 6:26am
Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

I know this thread is pretty old but I was wondering if someone could tell me the merits and vices of a Singer 99W100 for sewing button holes. Will this machine sew denim OK, or do I need to find a 110 or a 130.

They probably will all work.    But the 110 and 130 are made more for denim and the 100 is more for finer fabric.


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2016 at 12:51pm
Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

They probably will all work. But the 110 and 130 are made more for denim and the 100 is more for finer fabric.
Thanks for the fast feedback HH. So, while the 100 would ideally be used for more closely woven fabrics, it isn't like sewing denim is going to break it? I mean, the thing is made like a tank and I imagine that most of the major parts are identical across the range of 99W sub-models. So it should be OK use until something better can be found. I won't be wasting my time if I can pick up a 99W100?


-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 1:02am
Just acquired this 99W100. Not perfect for doing denim, I know, but I am hoping it does the job until I can find a 110 or a 130 or a Reece 101. Looks like it needs a bit of work but appears to me to be complete. 

Singer 99W100


-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 7:02am
^^ nice pick up!  if you were in the US, I have a 99w110 for sale.  Once you get it going you should be pretty happy with it.


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 9:38am
It was only $57 so I am not too unhappy about it only being a 100. Now I just have to find a studio space for the managerie of 20+ machines and I will be sorted. 

-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 10:29am
Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

It was only $57 so I am not too unhappy about it only being a 100. Now I just have to find a studio space for the managerie of 20+ machines and I will be sorted. 

that is the deal of the year! 


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: leicadokyu
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2016 at 7:55pm
Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

It was only $57 so I am not too unhappy about it only being a 100. Now I just have to find a studio space for the managerie of 20+ machines and I will be sorted. 

that is the deal of the year! 


Oh man! Its a deal of the year indeed. Derek what is the difference of the 100 to the 110? What's better?Can you educate me please? I'm talking about the singer keyhole machine. I am a sewing machine freak too and I own some vintage sewing machines. I have been so interested with the singer keyhole machine ever since but it seems impossible to find one here in the Philippines.  I own a Reece 101 as that is the keyhole machine common here and not the Singer. I am planning to buy another keyhole machine but I am trying to decide if I'll go Singer or I should stick with another Reece or maybe give Durkopp a try. I've seen your post in our Machine freak forum about the Singer keyhole machine that you are selling. So far its not letting me sleep for days now.  


-------------
Art is all about doing what you shouldn't - Nobuyoshi, Araki


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2016 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by leicadokyu leicadokyu wrote:

Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

It was only $57 so I am not too unhappy about it only being a 100. Now I just have to find a studio space for the managerie of 20+ machines and I will be sorted. 

that is the deal of the year! 


Oh man! Its a deal of the year indeed. Derek what is the difference of the 100 to the 110? What's better?Can you educate me please? I'm talking about the singer keyhole machine. I am a sewing machine freak too and I own some vintage sewing machines. I have been so interested with the singer keyhole machine ever since but it seems impossible to find one here in the Philippines.  I own a Reece 101 as that is the keyhole machine common here and not the Singer. I am planning to buy another keyhole machine but I am trying to decide if I'll go Singer or I should stick with another Reece or maybe give Durkopp a try. I've seen your post in our Machine freak forum about the Singer keyhole machine that you are selling. So far its not letting me sleep for days now.  


Again, I'm not an expert...  The main differences between the 100 and the 110 that I've read is the 100  is a Double chain stitch and lays reinforcing cord. For cut-first buttonholes (5/8" to 1 1/2") in closely woven fabrics. "Left handed".  and the 110 Sews and cuts buttonholes (5/8" to 1 5/8") and eyelet-end buttonholes with and without bar, with double chain stitch (Singer buttonhole stitch); lays reinforcing cord; detachable pattern wheel. LONG travel machine.
Now reading this it seems the 100 may not have a detachable pattern cam wheel while the 110 does.   the 110 can do a larger size and do more than the 100.  Also look at the 99w75.  It's very similar to the 110.   The 100 cuts first then sews which is used more for suits as it produces a cleaner looking keyhole. 

The 99W only makes the stitch size that the wheel tells it.  It's not like the 101 that you can adjust the sizes as you go.  I believe the Durkopp does that also.  Now with that said, there are like 5 different types of 101s, and not all of them are adjustable.  Some only do one size.   You need to look at the plate on the right side to see what it's set up for. 

99's are tough to find anywhere by the way.  And finding the cams is almost harder so for a Keyhole machine that you can use and find, I'd go with the 101.   But if you want the vintage aspect then go with the 99W.     I don't know much about the Durkopp but I've seen a black one that looks pretty cool.


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 2:01am
Picked up my "new" Singer 99W100 today. Came with four spare cams. 

99W Cam Embossing reads "256125 COMP 99W110 & 130 3/4 (L&M)"

99W Cam Embossing reads "256125 COMP 99W110 & 130 3/4 (L&M)"


99W Cam Embossing reads "3/4 EYE (L) & 3/4 S.T. 99-W-75 & 100 230358 COMP."

99W Cam Embossing reads "3/4 EYE (L) & 3/4 S.T. 99-W-75 & 100 230358 COMP."



99W Cam Embossing reads "1 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 & 100 251229 COMP"

99W Cam Embossing reads "1 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 & 100 251229 COMP"


99W Cam Embossing reads "1 1/4 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 251237 COMP"

99W Cam Embossing reads "1 1/4 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 251237 COMP"


-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: leicadokyu
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 3:19am
Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

Picked up my "new" Singer 99W100 today. Came with four spare cams. 

99W Cam Embossing reads "256125 COMP 99W110 & 130 3/4 (L&M)"

99W Cam Embossing reads "256125 COMP 99W110 & 130 3/4 (L&M)"


99W Cam Embossing reads "3/4 EYE (L) & 3/4 S.T. 99-W-75 & 100 230358 COMP."

99W Cam Embossing reads "3/4 EYE (L) & 3/4 S.T. 99-W-75 & 100 230358 COMP."



99W Cam Embossing reads "1 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 & 100 251229 COMP"

99W Cam Embossing reads "1 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 & 100 251229 COMP"


99W Cam Embossing reads "1 1/4 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 251237 COMP"

99W Cam Embossing reads "1 1/4 EYE (L&M) 99-W-75 251237 COMP"


So you have 2 Singer keyhole machines now? 


-------------
Art is all about doing what you shouldn't - Nobuyoshi, Araki


Posted By: leicadokyu
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 5:16am
Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

Originally posted by leicadokyu leicadokyu wrote:

Originally posted by Happy Hooligan Happy Hooligan wrote:

Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

It was only $57 so I am not too unhappy about it only being a 100. Now I just have to find a studio space for the managerie of 20+ machines and I will be sorted. 

that is the deal of the year! 


Oh man! Its a deal of the year indeed. Derek what is the difference of the 100 to the 110? What's better?Can you educate me please? I'm talking about the singer keyhole machine. I am a sewing machine freak too and I own some vintage sewing machines. I have been so interested with the singer keyhole machine ever since but it seems impossible to find one here in the Philippines.  I own a Reece 101 as that is the keyhole machine common here and not the Singer. I am planning to buy another keyhole machine but I am trying to decide if I'll go Singer or I should stick with another Reece or maybe give Durkopp a try. I've seen your post in our Machine freak forum about the Singer keyhole machine that you are selling. So far its not letting me sleep for days now.  


Again, I'm not an expert...  The main differences between the 100 and the 110 that I've read is the 100  is a Double chain stitch and lays reinforcing cord. For cut-first buttonholes (5/8" to 1 1/2") in closely woven fabrics. "Left handed".  and the 110 Sews and cuts buttonholes (5/8" to 1 5/8") and eyelet-end buttonholes with and without bar, with double chain stitch (Singer buttonhole stitch); lays reinforcing cord; detachable pattern wheel. LONG travel machine.
Now reading this it seems the 100 may not have a detachable pattern cam wheel while the 110 does.   the 110 can do a larger size and do more than the 100.  Also look at the 99w75.  It's very similar to the 110.   The 100 cuts first then sews which is used more for suits as it produces a cleaner looking keyhole. 

The 99W only makes the stitch size that the wheel tells it.  It's not like the 101 that you can adjust the sizes as you go.  I believe the Durkopp does that also.  Now with that said, there are like 5 different types of 101s, and not all of them are adjustable.  Some only do one size.   You need to look at the plate on the right side to see what it's set up for. 

99's are tough to find anywhere by the way.  And finding the cams is almost harder so for a Keyhole machine that you can use and find, I'd go with the 101.   But if you want the vintage aspect then go with the 99W.     I don't know much about the Durkopp but I've seen a black one that looks pretty cool.

Very helpful info here Derek. Appreciate you taking time in responding to my question. I guess I will have to see if i can find a 99w110 locally but if not i might end up with another reece 101. I see that you are selling a black body reece 101 mine is the green body but the black one looks cool. If only freight charges for these mean machines are cheap then I won't think twice in buying your black reece.  


-------------
Art is all about doing what you shouldn't - Nobuyoshi, Araki


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 5:20am
No I don't have two. Just the one. I "bought" it the other day but because it is a beast the logistics take a bit of organisation and so I only picked it up today. Found the extra cams in the little tin drawer under the table. 

-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 5:27am
BTW this is the only other 99W I have seen in Australia. I am hoping to one day pry it from the cold dead hands of the woman who owns it (so far she has refused an offer of $2,000 - not that I actually had that much to spend, I just thought I would throw a number at her to see if she would budge). What is it? Is it a 110 or a 130? Or is it a 75? 






-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: leicadokyu
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2016 at 5:51am
Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

BTW this is the only other 99W I have seen in Australia. I am hoping to one day pry it from the cold dead hands of the woman who owns it (so far she has refused an offer of $2,000 - not that I actually had that much to spend, I just thought I would throw a number at her to see if she would budge). What is it? Is it a 110 or a 130? Or is it a 75? 






Oh my! You are making life difficult for me John. Geek


-------------
Art is all about doing what you shouldn't - Nobuyoshi, Araki


Posted By: xallanx
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2016 at 10:01am
I'm looking for a stand for a D.B. Die Works No. 39 kick press. Also, looking for dies for the machine. Any leads? Thanks!


Posted By: leicadokyu
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:17am
Originally posted by xallanx xallanx wrote:

I'm looking for a stand for a D.B. Die Works No. 39 kick press. Also, looking for dies for the machine. Any leads? Thanks!

Do you have the actual die for this kick press? I have a contact who might be able to help you. For the stand i'm afraid i won't be able to help.


-------------
Art is all about doing what you shouldn't - Nobuyoshi, Araki


Posted By: xallanx
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by leicadokyu leicadokyu wrote:

Originally posted by xallanx xallanx wrote:

I'm looking for a stand for a D.B. Die Works No. 39 kick press. Also, looking for dies for the machine. Any leads? Thanks!

Do you have the actual die for this kick press? I have a contact who might be able to help you. For the stand i'm afraid i won't be able to help.

I have the kick press. I am just in need of dies and a stand though I think I may have to build my own stand.


Posted By: leicadokyu
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by xallanx xallanx wrote:

Originally posted by leicadokyu leicadokyu wrote:

Originally posted by xallanx xallanx wrote:

I'm looking for a stand for a D.B. Die Works No. 39 kick press. Also, looking for dies for the machine. Any leads? Thanks!


Do you have the actual die for this kick press? I have a contact who might be able to help you. For the stand i'm afraid i won't be able to help.


I have the kick press. I am just in need of dies and a stand though I think I may have to build my own stand.


Sent you pm Allan.

-------------
Art is all about doing what you shouldn't - Nobuyoshi, Araki


Posted By: Redpoint
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 1:43pm
If anyone is in Omaha there is a load of Singer 111, 211, 69, etc. and Union Special spares for sale on Craigslist. US$100. It would be good if someone could save this lot before someone turns it into "jewellery" or scrap metal. Some of it is NOS. 

http://omaha.craigslist.org/atq/5518668309.html" rel="nofollow - omaha.craigslist.org/atq/5518668309.html


-------------
Redpoint


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2016 at 1:49pm
Originally posted by Redpoint Redpoint wrote:

If anyone is in Omaha there is a load of Singer 111, 211, 69, etc. and Union Special spares for sale on Craigslist. US$100. It would be good if someone could save this lot before someone turns it into "jewellery" or scrap metal. Some of it is NOS. 

http://omaha.craigslist.org/atq/5518668309.html" rel="nofollow - omaha.craigslist.org/atq/5518668309.html


I think it would take a few years to organize all that.   LOL 


-------------
http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: BillTheButchr
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2016 at 2:35am
I emailed the seller twice and no reply. 

I think some of those gears are made for the Singer 71. They could be stitch count gears which would be an amazing find. 

Shame.


-------------
Instagram.com/billthebutchr


Posted By: dmar836
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 12:27pm
Hey guys,
If anyone is in the Kansas City area, I have a Singer 111W-155 I'm going to list.  I need the room and seldom touch it any more.  Can't ship the beast so let me know if interested.
Sorry it's my first post but lurking for a while and just get stuck reading reading old machine threads.
Dave


Posted By: gcdrygoodsco
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2017 at 8:15am
Shorty- I do not believe they did based on the information I possess.  However, the Converse shoe factory was located in Lumberton, North Carolina, so it was likely a supplier in proximity to their business.  One thing that has been amusing to me to research, including the fabric disassembly and analysis of yarns and threads, has been the fact that the fabric for old Converse and many other athletic shoes during the 1920-1960 period is that the duck/canvas is consistently found to be laminated with a thin cotton plain-weave lining fabric.  Perhaps this was a durability improvement because of the lamination, but it could have also been an early attempt for wicking properties to use a denser fabric to draw perspiration from the sock/foot and out into the looser canvas/duck to evaporate.  

I do know that Converse used its own South American Parva rubber, pressed its own gum rubber outsoles and toe tape, used Bates eyelets in nickel finish, and a 100% cotton herringbone tape for the back stay.  From the fabric analysis of a 1930 sneaker, I found that the lamination bonding agent was an early glue, possibly horse hoof-based.  


Posted By: xallanx
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 8:51am
machinecollector.com seems to be down. Is it done, or will it return?


Posted By: Borderstate
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2017 at 5:30pm
I've been asked to locate a source for the striped military canvas the Swiss used on some totes and backpacks. Ive seen plenty of examples of products but none that refer to the fabric by name. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Posted By: nakina
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2017 at 9:31am
< ="text/">P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm; }

Hello all,

First post here, other than in the introduction thread. I recently started making jeans, and I am trying to determine whether or not the fabric I am using is sanforized (the local vendor doesn't know). Are there any telltale signs? Does the sanforization process impart an odour upon the fabric? I ask in part because I have always wondered about the formaldehyde(-ish?) smell that is emitted from some jeans. One variety that I am using is smelly, and another is not. Or am I just smelling some chemical used to set the indigo?

It's not all that important, but it would be nice to be able to predict shrinkage...

Also, does anybody have a good source for hardware, particularly donut buttons?

Thanks for any responses.



Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2017 at 5:53pm
Sanforisation involves steam and mechanical manipulation, no chemicals. I did find out some time ago that most fabric is not starched. It is treated with non-organic stiffening agents (supposedly real starch is a bug attractant), often they are formaldehyde based. It is a nasty carcinogen, but only one of an endless list of accepted sins in global industry.
The only way to know for sure if your particular fabric will shrink is to test wash a sample. Even if it is known to be sanforized, some will still shrink a bit. Some loomstate fabric is woven such that it naturally doesn't shrink much at all. I use 10" samples. It doesn't use too much fabric, but is enough to guage a difference, and the dimension allows easy percentage calculation.

I haven't tried them yet, but Citronjeans.com looks promising for buttons and hardware.

-------------
My coat has nine buttons, but I always fascinate.


Posted By: nakina
Date Posted: 05 Aug 2017 at 7:22pm
Thanks for the above info.  I will go with the shrink test.  And Citron looks very promising!  I will order some supplies and report back.


Posted By: sleepymrp
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 2:27pm
Cone Mills Denim White Oak plant is going to shut down in December. Will the denim price go up in the future?? ...


Posted By: haler
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 3:18pm
Article regarding that.

https://www.heddels.com/2017/10/cone-mills-close-white-oak-plant-last-american-selvedge-denim-mill/%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.heddels.com/2017/10/cone-mills-close-white-oak-plant-last-american-selvedge-denim-mill/

-------------
roots in the desert.


Posted By: Shorty Long
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 4:08pm
Sad news about Cone.


Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 9:20pm
RIP Cone denim


Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2017 at 1:32pm
... but as long as Okayama mills doesn't shut down anytime soon, a few of us here at least will be happy l'm sure...




Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net