Cheers Buddy, yep another year older but probably no wiser!  

I have a really dark blanket lined type 1 (519 XX) in a great 44" chest which came out of an estate in Boston MA. Its a shame actually I rarely wear it as its just a bit too boxy/heavy and really hard to wear with other things without "looking like a costume" (in the words of hellers Larry) but I keep it cos its quite rare, which is also why I'm reluctant to post pics, its not even on the blog!

ps Happy Birthday!

 

Yeah, come on Chris - get those rarities posted on here, we wanna see what you've got! 

I will try and take some pics of the two 'new' acquisitions I picked up lately, plus some stuff you asked for on the 557xx

 

(btw may have to start a Levi Strauss 1962-1984 thread)

See- now thats proper thinking Heech! Maybe i shouldn't post any thing,just because its rare? BGB- if you don't want to blog or post a certain item...Best not to talk about the item. BTW this thread goes to 1970, everything from the 60's is ok here. Heech go ahead and start the new Levi thread 1970 to  1984.

 

Didn't sound dickish at all mate, one thing I would advise is if you're gonna spend £££ on vintage denim, make sure spend some of that spondooley on a camera that is reliable, and keep those pics on disk.. etc.

 

A 519xx eh?  Sounds great, cant wait for the pics!

 

 

 

From this jacket -

 

 

Here's the basic chart, showing 'blanket' and 'long' -

 

 

Would pay good money for an early 558XX in mint condition sz 46 btw!

 

..Lastly the white levi's labels -

 

 

 

The end of the rivet is similar but also different, probably due to where it was made, rather than when.

When did they stop making piece-work by homeworkers? 1890?

 

Well spotted.  You make me envious as hell with your vocation.

 

If it was me, I'd put all the duplicates that you have (small scraps only with rivet) and put them into a frame showing the development 1870? - 1900's.  Similar to pinning butterflies.

 

As I've said before, would be awesome to have a pair or at least one half of a pair, to sandwich between perspex and wall mount. I've got a space right above the fireplace

 

 

http://www.bluegoldblues.com/post/18493509264/killer-mid-1960s-patched-up-big-e-501s" rel="nofollow - more pics here

 

Something like this, possibly with legs.  Dont mind the condition, just sort of complete(ish) - just the back or the front.  Could be framed just to see one side?  Would this be crazy house remortgage expensive??

 

Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941.

Sorry Drew, im not that familiar with that time period. Im sure someone lurking on this thread should know.

Around 1937 the 501 got its hidden rivets and lost the suspender buttons.

 

And got a red tab to boot!

 

OOh you've stepped on a landmine there Martin!

 

Personally I have never seen a pair of 1936-37 Levis 501xx.  Never.

Obviously that doesn't mean to say that they dont (or haven't) existed??

But after a conversation with a well-known member here who is a bit of a Levis fan on another less dynamic denim-forum, it seems that the likelyhood of the two different models, i.e: a '36 and a '37, is slim to none.

I think it has to do with two things:

 

Firstly L.S. & co's dating system which is vague at best.

It may have been invented by sales manager Chris Lucier in 1936 but I doubt it came out until the hidden rivet model as there would have been more evidence in advertising for us to see.

Remember the pocket-flasher came out to coincide with the hidden-rivet model (also advertising the red tab device)? The only advertising I've seen for the red tab only before then is those wooden cowboy torso's with a pair of 501xx's nailed to the bottom (on the back is a large arrow pointing to the red tab).

 

Secondly I think that the time when the idea of the red tab came about, and the time when the hidden rivet came about, is less than a year, so a matter of months really.  The set-up for machines to include the tab seems relatively easy compared to the set-up for the hidden rivet which is more complex, so it's possible some jeans had the tab before the 'hidden rivets', but it would make sense that the two ideas, although months apart should be incorpoated at the same time.

I emailed Lynn Downey years ago asking her about this, and she just spielled-off a load of Levis gumph which really did not answer the question, instead only cemented the fact that Levi's history is vague at best.  She also said she'd never seen a '36-37 model either. 

 

I would love to be proved wrong.

 

So any takers??

 

Wow, $8K ... really?  It's not as though you can wear 'em .

 

But yes Mike, I wholeheartily agree with you on that one.  A  much cheaper piece (but Levis of course).

 

If I ever get out your way, I'm gonna go hunting with you for sure!

I simplify things by calling my "1936" 506XX and "1937" 501XX "late 30s Levis".  

Will throw out a thought... if 1936 is the year for the red tab, is it possible it was applied to the jackets first (which really didn't carry anything outwardly to identify them as Levis) and the following year was applied to the jeans?  Who knows.... I'm not overly concerned about it either way!

 

 

 

my theory was...Levi Strauss was probably making riveted pants in San Francisco once they filed for the patent in 1872...This turns out not to be true, i will have to double check this date, in 1878- Levi Strauss said in the court case (Levi Strauss v.s King)  they first started making riveted pants in San Francisco after the patent was granted...so that theory is gone.

Jacob davis said- All of the pants that he made in Reno, were made of white duck( white sail cloth) Jacob's name and patent pending was on the label...Im guessing that it would be a center patch? Perhaps the tale about the first levi's being made out of tent cloth isn't so far off...Jacob davis was using the same cloth to make tents...We know now- this white duck by definition is sail cloth,  who knows... folks back then probably called  duck fabrics, tent fabrics?

I will have to check this date- in 1876 or 77 the New York factory was set up to make riveted overalls. I think this has been said before? All of the pants were sent to the west coast to be sold. The interesting thing for me is- I think when the New York factory started....So did the XX Amoskeag denim. I will get into this xx theory at a later date.... btw Ed Cray thought - XX started in 1877.

I've said this before- A 1877 government study on( Chinese labor in San Francisco) In 1876 Levi Strauss employed 180 Chinese and 30 non Chinese. The story about Italian women sewing pants is probable true for New York...Nothing I've seen would suggest Italian women in San Francisco.

More to come in the following weeks.

 

Interesting take away from the Ken Burns doc.  Just goes to show that even with respected historians, you've always got to maintain a slightly jaundiced eye.

 

Interesting take away from the Ken Burns doc.  Just goes to show that even with respected historians, you've always got to maintain a slightly jaundiced eye.[

I will try to look into the preshrunk question you asked, I'm sure we will have to go back and pour over those boxes of research at a later date. There were all sorts of interesting little tid bits of information, Jacob Davis used a friend to write letters for him.... Levi Strauss paid all of the court fees for A.B Elfelt ( they were probably friends) we found that a lot of these dry goods merchants belonged to the same social clubs. I can't remember the name of the guy who infringed on the Levi patent from San Jose..... He skipped town and disappeared

What does the 'pacific' stamp on the back of Levis rivets mean ? sorry if thats a n00b question

http://ragtopvintage.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/old-levis/" rel="nofollow - http://ragtopvintage.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/old-levis/

Just stumbled on these pics of what apparently is a lot 211...I know LVC did somesort of repro but I have never seen pictures of one before...

Are they commonly found?? whos got one? any info would be cool!

would be great to see some real pictures!

also who runs oldestlevis.com? fellow denim bro?

Good guess Bob...The pacific stamped rivets were on what looked to be Levi's from the late 1920's, the pants had belt loops. I thought this might interest a few people... In 1878 Levi Strauss said they first made hunting jackets in San Francisco on November 7 1873....First blouse April 8 1874....They didnt wait until they received the re issued patent in 1875.

Glad your enjoying the information JBT....Good stuff bob, see if you can ask around and see if that's true about the heavy weight 501?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVI-STRAUSS-Double-Tex-SUNSET-1930s-NOS-Indigo-Wool-Military-Shirt-36-/281048566994?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item416fccccd2" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVI-STRAUSS-Double-Tex-SUNSET-1930s-NOS-Indigo-Wool-Military-Shirt-36-/281048566994?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item416fccccd2

pretty sure this is pre-1930s as well

 

Sansome.

Taken a little while, but I got there in the end.

Here are pics of that one pocket 201 (?) from 'Boon' volume 1 you asked for way back -

 

 

 

 

Here they are with two pairs of 1901's-

 

 

 

 

It's funny that the 201's have a selvedged one-piece waistband, and yet the two 1901-1914 pairs have a two piece waistband (?)

All of them have watch pockets below the waistband, as you would expect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1890 501s:

1880s boys ducks:

1900s duck closed-front jumper:

No matter how hard I try I can't get a clear shot of the buttons on the duck jumper. They are fantastic, and a mystery. The archivist (not Ms. Downey) said that no one can figure out what they are. I suppose they could be glass. They look like they could be some sort of bakelite, but I don't believe that was around yet.

1910s Koveralls:

1920s Sunset popover:

1900s denim jumper:

and the LVC remake of the denim jumper:

 

Some Lvc gets closer to where (in my mind) the core of the brand should be - reproducing exact copies. 

Love the denim on that shirt - although the rivets need hammering, IMO they let it down a little.

 

Again, really great shots!  Made my morning.

 

 

 

 

 

Ok. I think this is a "3-2.1 Body Style - Hollow Eye Mottled" china button. I found a pic from Buckeye State Button Society that looks similiar to this button except the color is different.

 

http://www.buttoncountry.com/china.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.buttoncountry.com/china.html

 

8th row, 3rd button from the left. The green china button.

 

A lot of info on buttons: http://www.ohiobuttons.org/EducationalLinks.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.ohiobuttons.org/EducationalLinks.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll be damned! That is without a doubt the same, or an extremely similar, button in a different color.

 Who knew that denimbro would be such a good sourcing platform?

Thanks, snake.

Great pictures of the denim jumper. But LVC must have used an earlier version? Was it just guessing that the jumper had arcs back in the 1870s and a triangular seam at the "buttoning front" . I'm asking because the original one is a piece from ca. 1900? LVC labels theirs as 1874. Do they have earlier original pieces? 

Nevertheless, great pictures! Thank you, Mr. Randal!