Levi Strauss 1873-1973
Printed From: denimbro
Category: Denimbro
Forum Name: Denim/workwear research
Forum Description: historical
URL: http://www.denimbro.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12
Printed Date: 29 Sep 2023 at 1:03pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Levi Strauss 1873-1973
Posted By: Sansome
Subject: Levi Strauss 1873-1973
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 11:14pm
Replies:
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 11:13am
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 11:14am
This is another picture not used in Jeans of the old west^^^
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 12:39pm
Here are the stamps and letters that came from the front pocket of the tool pocket Levi.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 2:11pm
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 9:49pm
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 9:51pm
This is the 1875-76 duck pant thats in jeans of the old west^^^
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 8:19pm
That duck pant is amazing. Any closeups of the buttons? Are they sewn on or riveted?
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Posted By: Nonriveted
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 11:32pm
I think I have some close up pics, sewn buttons for sure- I think shank or riveted Levi buttons were first being used when the Levi factory started in the late 1880's 88 or 89? I have hunted denim in a few places where the trash dumps date from the early 1870's up until 1887. I've never found shank or riveted Levi buttons in any trash dumps that date up to 1887.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 1:11am
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 1:21am
This was the thickest denim I had ever come across ( felt like 14-16 ounce) This pant was made after the patent expired, it had L.S & Co S.F rivets. Note- this pant has sewn buttons, watch pocket on the waistband, center label and denim pocket bags. Charla found a article in 1900- it said that Levi Strauss was selling all of their clothing patterns, they were no longer going to do piece work.... The entire clothing line was now going to be made by the Levi factory in San Francisco. I think a lot of the clothing we have seen in books including this piece here^^^^ was not made by the factory.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 1:05am
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 1:12am
All Levi pieces date before 1876, as you can see....No arc's, that's really no surprise because Levi's competition didn't have any decorative stitches on their back pockets...there is one exception- Neustadter bros had a flower stitch on their back pocket in 1875.
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2012 at 6:44am
Wow do I dare post on this tread now after seeing Mikes stuff? but as its pre 1960's I guess I'm safe. Here are some more pics from the pocket repair i recently posted on sufu. 1940's 506 Xx
















------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2012 at 7:23am
Thanks for the post BGB^^^
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2012 at 8:47am
I think I saw that it was your birthday Heech....Happy birthday
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2012 at 8:59am
Sansome wrote:
I think I saw that it was your birthday Heech....Happy birthday |
Cheers Buddy, yep another year older but probably no wiser!
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2012 at 10:31am
Dr_Heech wrote:
Sansome wrote:
Thanks for the post BGB^^^ |
Do you have any other 506's? |
I have a really dark blanket lined type 1 (519 XX) in a great 44" chest which came out of an estate in Boston MA. Its a shame actually I rarely wear it as its just a bit too boxy/heavy and really hard to wear with other things without "looking like a costume" (in the words of hellers Larry) but I keep it cos its quite rare, which is also why I'm reluctant to post pics, its not even on the blog!
ps Happy Birthday!
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2012 at 10:58am
BGB- this thread isn't about holding out! If you have it, post it!!!!!
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2012 at 10:53pm
Sansome wrote:
BGB- this thread isn't about holding out! If you have it, post it!!!!! |
Yeah, come on Chris - get those rarities posted on here, we wanna see what you've got! I will try and take some pics of the two 'new' acquisitions I picked up lately, plus some stuff you asked for on the 557xx  (btw may have to start a Levi Strauss 1962-1984 thread)
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2012 at 11:12pm
Dr_Heech wrote:
Sansome wrote:
BGB- this thread isn't about holding out! If you have it, post it!!!!! |
Yeah, come on Chris - get those rarities posted on here, we wanna see what you've got! I will try and take some pics of the two 'new' acquisitions I picked up lately, plus some stuff you asked for on the 557xx you asked for  (btw may have to start a Levi Strauss 1962-1984 thread)
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See- now thats proper thinking Heech! Maybe i shouldn't post any thing,just because its rare? BGB- if you don't want to blog or post a certain item...Best not to talk about the item. BTW this thread goes to 1970, everything from the 60's is ok here. Heech go ahead and start the new Levi thread 1970 to 1984.
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 4:48am
Sorry i Didnt mean to sound as dickish as it came across in the post, I only mentioned it as the dr. asked about if I had one, i will eventually get round to posting it when I catch up with technology and get a camera that actually works!
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 9:24am
BGB wrote:
Sorry i Didnt mean to sound as dickish as it came across in the post, I only mentioned it as the dr. asked about if I had one, i will eventually get round to posting it when I catch up with technology and get a camera that actually works! |
Didn't sound dickish at all mate, one thing I would advise is if you're gonna spend £££ on vintage denim, make sure spend some of that spondooley on a camera that is reliable, and keep those pics on disk.. etc. A 519xx eh? Sounds great, cant wait for the pics!
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 7:57am
Here's some pix from my old 'Boon' Denim jackets mag on the 557xx labels for BGB, shows the shirt-weight material pocket-flaps, domed-middle copper button and 'every garment guaranteed' label - From this jacket - Here's the basic chart, showing 'blanket' and 'long' - Would pay good money for an early 558XX in mint condition sz 46 btw! ..Lastly the white levi's labels -
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 12:09am
Great stuff Heech, thanks for posting... Maybe we will see you out at next years inspiration? BGB- sorry I got a little bent, no hard feelings
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2012 at 6:08pm
Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2012 at 6:11pm
I've been waiting for years to confirm that a Levi XX from 1890-91 has a selvage waistband and a single needle yoke^^^(FU) If all goes well in the coming months, I hope to be able to show what the pocket bag looks like.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:52am
I thought this would be right up your alley Heech, I noticed a difference in the rivets on my early 1891 #2 compared with the rivet on the xx scrap. The xx scrap rivet seems to be older?
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:53am
Early 1891 rivet.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:54am
1890-91 xx rivet
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 1:12am
Thanks Mike - yeah it certainly looks that way, what with the shorter/more stubbier curved lines joining the words 'L.S & co' and SF. The end of the rivet is similar but also different, probably due to where it was made, rather than when. When did they stop making piece-work by homeworkers? 1890?
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 1:18am
They stopped piece work in 1900, the xx rivet doesn't have a . between the S F and the L S, seems like crude box like stamp instead of the dash lines...Cant say I have ever seen a rivet like the one on the XX piece?
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 1:20am
Looks like its(the xx rivet) has no line under the co.
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 4:11am
Sansome wrote:
Looks like its(the xx rivet) has no line under the co. |
Well spotted. You make me envious as hell with your vocation. If it was me, I'd put all the duplicates that you have (small scraps only with rivet) and put them into a frame showing the development 1870? - 1900's. Similar to pinning butterflies. As I've said before, would be awesome to have a pair or at least one half of a pair, to sandwich between perspex and wall mount. I've got a space right above the fireplace 
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 6:00am
New pickup!
http://www.bluegoldblues.com/post/18493509264/killer-mid-1960s-patched-up-big-e-501s" rel="nofollow - more pics here
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 8:00pm
Dr_Heech wrote:
Sansome wrote:
Looks like its(the xx rivet) has no line under the co. |
Well spotted. You make me envious as hell with your vocation. If it was me, I'd put all the duplicates that you have (small scraps only with rivet) and put them into a frame showing the development 1870? - 1900's. Similar to pinning butterflies. As I've said before, would be awesome to have a pair or at least one half of a pair, to sandwich between perspex and wall mount. I've got a space right above the fireplace 
| Good idea Heech, maybe i can find you something to go above your fireplace(i hope) Nice jeans BGB^^^
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 1:09am
Sansome wrote:
Dr_Heech wrote:
Sansome wrote:
Looks like its(the xx rivet) has no line under the co. |
Well spotted. You make me envious as hell with your vocation. If it was me, I'd put all the duplicates that you have (small scraps only with rivet) and put them into a frame showing the development 1870? - 1900's. Similar to pinning butterflies. As I've said before, would be awesome to have a pair or at least one half of a pair, to sandwich between perspex and wall mount. I've got a space right above the fireplace 
| Good idea Heech, maybe i can find you something to go above your fireplace(i hope). |
Something like this, possibly with legs. Dont mind the condition, just sort of complete(ish) - just the back or the front. Could be framed just to see one side? Would this be crazy house remortgage expensive??
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 11:52am
The piece you posted from the museum would be about $8,000. This piece is the same time period as the 1879 xx archive piece, but the real date IMO is 1888-89 for both pieces. Let's try and find you a much cheaper piece
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Posted By: drew
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 11:34pm
Sansome, Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941.
------------- WTB MF XL XXL 36 38 ripped torn worn stained altered or otherwise
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 11:40pm
drew wrote:
Sansome,Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941. |
Sorry Drew, im not that familiar with that time period. Im sure someone lurking on this thread should know.
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 11:43pm
drew wrote:
Sansome,Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941. |
Around 1937 the 501 got its hidden rivets and lost the suspender buttons.
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Posted By: drew
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 1:00am
Thanks fellas!
------------- WTB MF XL XXL 36 38 ripped torn worn stained altered or otherwise
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 7:49am
mr randal wrote:
drew wrote:
Sansome,Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941. |
Around 1937 the 501 got its hidden rivets and lost the suspender buttons. |
And got a red tab to boot!
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Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 8:09am
Dr_Heech wrote:
mr randal wrote:
drew wrote:
Sansome,Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941. |
Around 1937 the 501 got its hidden rivets and lost the suspender buttons. |
And got a red tab to boot! |
I thought it got the tab in 1936?
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 8:44am
Maynard Friedman wrote:
Dr_Heech wrote:
mr randal wrote:
drew wrote:
Sansome,Do you know if there was a model 501 that appeared after the 1933 model, but before the 1944 model? I'm trying to identify the model that my grandpa was wearing in pictures of him from 1939-1941. |
Around 1937 the 501 got its hidden rivets and lost the suspender buttons. |
And got a red tab to boot! |
I thought it got the tab in 1936?  |
OOh you've stepped on a landmine there Martin! Personally I have never seen a pair of 1936-37 Levis 501xx. Never. Obviously that doesn't mean to say that they dont (or haven't) existed?? But after a conversation with a well-known member here who is a bit of a Levis fan on another less dynamic denim-forum, it seems that the likelyhood of the two different models, i.e: a '36 and a '37, is slim to none. I think it has to do with two things: Firstly L.S. & co's dating system which is vague at best. It may have been invented by sales manager Chris Lucier in 1936 but I doubt it came out until the hidden rivet model as there would have been more evidence in advertising for us to see. Remember the pocket-flasher came out to coincide with the hidden-rivet model (also advertising the red tab device)? The only advertising I've seen for the red tab only before then is those wooden cowboy torso's with a pair of 501xx's nailed to the bottom (on the back is a large arrow pointing to the red tab). Secondly I think that the time when the idea of the red tab came about, and the time when the hidden rivet came about, is less than a year, so a matter of months really. The set-up for machines to include the tab seems relatively easy compared to the set-up for the hidden rivet which is more complex, so it's possible some jeans had the tab before the 'hidden rivets', but it would make sense that the two ideas, although months apart should be incorpoated at the same time. I emailed Lynn Downey years ago asking her about this, and she just spielled-off a load of Levis gumph which really did not answer the question, instead only cemented the fact that Levi's history is vague at best. She also said she'd never seen a '36-37 model either. I would love to be proved wrong. So any takers?? 
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 9:10am
Sansome wrote:
The piece you posted from the museum would be about $8,000. This piece is the same time period as the 1879 xx archive piece, but the real date IMO is 1888-89 for both pieces. Let's try and find you a much cheaper piece  |
Wow, $8K ... really? It's not as though you can wear 'em  . But yes Mike, I wholeheartily agree with you on that one. A much cheaper piece (but Levis of course). If I ever get out your way, I'm gonna go hunting with you for sure!
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Posted By: setterman
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 9:51am
I simplify things by calling my "1936" 506XX and "1937" 501XX "late 30s Levis". 
Will throw out a thought... if 1936 is the year for the red tab, is it possible it was applied to the jackets first (which really didn't carry anything outwardly to identify them as Levis) and the following year was applied to the jeans? Who knows.... I'm not overly concerned about it either way!
------------- I got a rocket in my pocket and roll in my jeans
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Posted By: denimdart
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 10:36am
Posted By: denimdart
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 10:37am
1894 Advertisement?
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Posted By: Cinch
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 10:41am
Thanks for posting the Levis ephemera denimdart. Very cool.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 11:09am
Thanks for posting denimdart, I believe this is the front and back side of the same ad^^ Levi Strauss dates this ad or handbill to 1899. Levi Strauss believes that XX started in 1873 so when you take the xx 26 years the standard thats on this ad^^ add 26 to 1873 you come up with 1899. Since i believe that XX started in 1876... I think this ad dates to 1902?
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 12:56am
Finally...Russ (Nonriveted's father) went to have a look at Ed Cray's boxes of research, this is the same research that was used for the 1978 book Levi's. I will for now, list a few things of interest that we got from the research. We learned about a year ago...Levi Strauss was a clothing manufacturer in the 1860's, my theory was...Levi Strauss was probably making riveted pants in San Francisco once they filed for the patent in 1872...This turns out not to be true, i will have to double check this date, in 1878- Levi Strauss said in the court case (Levi Strauss v.s King) they first started making riveted pants in San Francisco after the patent was granted...so that theory is gone.
Jacob davis said- All of the pants that he made in Reno, were made of white duck( white sail cloth) Jacob's name and patent pending was on the label...Im guessing that it would be a center patch? Perhaps the tale about the first levi's being made out of tent cloth isn't so far off...Jacob davis was using the same cloth to make tents...We know now- this white duck by definition is sail cloth, who knows... folks back then probably called duck fabrics, tent fabrics?
I will have to check this date- in 1876 or 77 the New York factory was set up to make riveted overalls. I think this has been said before? All of the pants were sent to the west coast to be sold. The interesting thing for me is- I think when the New York factory started....So did the XX Amoskeag denim. I will get into this xx theory at a later date.... btw Ed Cray thought - XX started in 1877.
I've said this before- A 1877 government study on( Chinese labor in San Francisco) In 1876 Levi Strauss employed 180 Chinese and 30 non Chinese. The story about Italian women sewing pants is probable true for New York...Nothing I've seen would suggest Italian women in San Francisco.
More to come in the following weeks.
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 2:02am
Very interesting, great info from you as usual Mike. Cant wait for the new book(s).
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Posted By: Cinch
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 8:17am
I found the part about the white duck sail cloth to be especially interesting. It makes sense since it was such a common and durable fabric of the day.
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Posted By: ThisSunday
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 8:43am
In the Gold Rush episode of Ken Burns' The West, they said Levi went out west to make tents out of duck canvas but it didn't work out so he made a pair of pants for a miner and the rest is history
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Posted By: Grant
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 2:08pm
Really great info Mike. Learning denim history like this is what makes this forum great!
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 1:27am
Thanks guys-glad you like the information^^
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Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 8:13am
Excellent stuff. I thought Crays book was very good, just a little short on info on the garments, and mostly about the business side. Since that was more likely what people would have been interested in back then, I wondered if he might not have had alot more technical info that wouldn't have made it in the book. He does refer to Levis as not using sanforisation, but a proprietary process for their preshrunk denim. True, or just trademark/marketing obfuscation?
Interesting take away from the Ken Burns doc. Just goes to show that even with respected historians, you've always got to maintain a slightly jaundiced eye.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 3:07pm
[QUOTE=Joseph Hill] Excellent stuff. I thought Crays book was very good, just a little short on info on the garments, and mostly about the business side. Since that was more likely what people would have been interested in back then, I wondered if he might not have had alot more technical info that wouldn't have made it in the book. He does refer to Levis as not using sanforisation, but a proprietary process for their preshrunk denim. True, or just trademark/marketing obfuscation?
Interesting take away from the Ken Burns doc. Just goes to show that even with respected historians, you've always got to maintain a slightly jaundiced eye.[
I will try to look into the preshrunk question you asked, I'm sure we will have to go back and pour over those boxes of research at a later date. There were all sorts of interesting little tid bits of information, Jacob Davis used a friend to write letters for him.... Levi Strauss paid all of the court fees for A.B Elfelt ( they were probably friends) we found that a lot of these dry goods merchants belonged to the same social clubs. I can't remember the name of the guy who infringed on the Levi patent from San Jose..... He skipped town and disappeared
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 4:10pm
question for Mike...
What does the 'pacific' stamp on the back of Levis rivets mean ? sorry if thats a n00b question
http://ragtopvintage.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/old-levis/" rel="nofollow - http://ragtopvintage.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/old-levis/
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 5:02pm
BGB wrote:
question for Mike...
What does the 'pacific' stamp on the back of Levis rivets mean ? sorry if thats a n00b question
http://ragtopvintage.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/old-levis/" rel="nofollow - http://ragtopvintage.wordpress.com/2010/10/08/old-levis/
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I saw 4 pairs one time at Brit Eatons booth at the rose bowl- I have no explanation for the pacific rivets yet?
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Posted By: Bob Dale
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2012 at 7:04pm
I don't know anything, at all.
But if I were to guess I'd say Pacific was a copper casting foundry as Levis still held a patent/copyright on the rivet at the time preventing another brand from having some kind of 'Pacific' brand.
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 07 May 2012 at 4:50pm
Just stumbled on these pics of what apparently is a lot 211...I know LVC did somesort of repro but I have never seen pictures of one before...
Are they commonly found?? whos got one? any info would be cool!
would be great to see some real pictures!
also who runs oldestlevis.com? fellow denim bro?
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 9:54am
?
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 10:05am
BGB wrote:
? |
Sorry BGB, don't know the answer to either of your questions?
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Posted By: BGB
Date Posted: 08 May 2012 at 3:49pm
damn, thanks anyway mike. thats gonna bug me now!
------------- bluegoldblues.com
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 16 May 2012 at 2:00am
Bob Dale wrote:
I don't know anything, at all.
But if I were to guess I'd say Pacific was a copper casting foundry as Levis still held a patent/copyright on the rivet at the time preventing another brand from having some kind of 'Pacific' brand.
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Good guess Bob...The pacific stamped rivets were on what looked to be Levi's from the late 1920's, the pants had belt loops. I thought this might interest a few people... In 1878 Levi Strauss said they first made hunting jackets in San Francisco on November 7 1873....First blouse April 8 1874....They didnt wait until they received the re issued patent in 1875.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2012 at 1:56am
This has most of the signs of being a 1876-77 Levi, the denim has been stained with iron rich soil. Since the rivets are all rotted away....this one will probably remain a mystery?
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Posted By: Joseph Hill
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2012 at 7:41am
It's hard to tell from the pictures, can you see traces of blue before the staining? I was always a sucker for oc denim (other color). Brown in particular. Accidental or intentional, that would make for some good looking jeans. I always wondered if it should be technically called denim if it's not indigo, or if it would then just be a heavy, colored twill. Interesting arcuates, very high and 'seagully'.
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Posted By: Union-Made
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2012 at 5:03am
Those stamps look like Scott #136 Washington 3 cent stamps issued in 1870-1871.
------------- Union-Made
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2012 at 1:25pm
BGB wrote:
Just stumbled on these pics of what apparently is a lot 211...I know LVC did somesort of repro but I have never seen pictures of one before...
Are they commonly found?? whos got one? any info would be cool!
would be great to see some real pictures!
also who runs oldestlevis.com? fellow denim bro?
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LVC did a denim repro of a very similar top in 1999 (no pocket flap) and one out of duck in 2009 or 2010. You can find them in the LVC catalogs thread.
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2012 at 10:16pm
Union-Made wrote:
Those stamps look like Scott #136 Washington 3 cent stamps issued in 1870-1871. | I believe they were the series after that one that you name....I think these stamps change again in 1878 or 79 if I recall? Thanks Union Made
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2012 at 2:25am
My friend Viktor- sent me this picture out of a Boon magazine he just picked up. It lookes like a Levi #2 from 1891, only this one has a double needle yolk. I always wondered when that change happened...I was thinking 1892. Note that it still has a selvage waistband...Note no lot number or every garment guaranteed. I will get some better pictures sent to me in a few days....I need this magazine!
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 6:08am
Btw Mike, I have theis magazine if you need any more pics/info. I also have the volume 4 (denim jackets one). If you want to buy one, they're usually £30ish from ebay - will look out for one if you like?
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2012 at 12:40pm
Sorry for the late reply Heech and thanks for the heads up on the mag. When you get a chance... Can you post a better picture of the boon mag pic I posted already.
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Posted By: JBT
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2012 at 2:51pm
I'm new here but very much enjoying reading the posts in this thread!
Wonderful efforts in researching these old finds both here and in the book - thanks for sharing!
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Posted By: setterman
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 1:48pm
Will share these photos here since the thread does goes through the 60s. This jacket is in fantastic shape, and I would assume it's relatively new (looks 80s to me), except for the big E used on the label, so I'm guessing it's from the 60s. Denim is very Wrangler like in shade and feel, I assume it's sanforized. Tagged dry clean only, 42L. Gonna put it in the for sale section, because it will never fit me.
By http://profile.imageshack.us/user/setterman" rel="nofollow - setterman at 2012-08-09
By http://profile.imageshack.us/user/setterman" rel="nofollow - setterman at 2012-08-09
By http://profile.imageshack.us/user/setterman" rel="nofollow - setterman at 2012-08-09
By http://profile.imageshack.us/user/setterman" rel="nofollow - setterman at 2012-08-09
------------- I got a rocket in my pocket and roll in my jeans
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 3:04pm
Posted By: Bob Dale
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2012 at 6:22pm
Very rad.
I've never seen a western blazer like that, always the panatela crap from the late 70s.
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Posted By: Bob Dale
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2012 at 8:56pm
Random ? maybe Sansome, PabloT or someone better versed than myself in Levis lore can answer for me:
My dad (who is no real expert) was telling me as a kid in Canada he could buy 'regular' Levis but also heavier weight 501's for winter. He said they were a few dollars more a pair or something, and weren't typically available year round but more towards late fall winter. All of that being said my dad has often used 'Levis' interchangably with 'Jeans' like one might with Coke or Kleenex. It could be that the local catalog merchant offered heavier weight jeans in the winter than they did in the summer, but my dad saying 'Levis' made me curious if the 501 has ever been marketed in multiple weights of denim like he is claiming they potentially were?
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Posted By: Sansome
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2012 at 11:03pm
JBT wrote:
I'm new here but very much enjoying reading the posts in this thread!
Wonderful efforts in researching these old finds both here and in the book - thanks for sharing!
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Glad your enjoying the information JBT....Good stuff bob, see if you can ask around and see if that's true about the heavy weight 501?
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Posted By: Shorty Long
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2013 at 2:55pm
well...here's something you don't see every day: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVI-STRAUSS-Double-Tex-SUNSET-1930s-NOS-Indigo-Wool-Military-Shirt-36-/281048566994?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item416fccccd2" rel="nofollow - http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEVI-STRAUSS-Double-Tex-SUNSET-1930s-NOS-Indigo-Wool-Military-Shirt-36-/281048566994?pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item416fccccd2
pretty sure this is pre-1930s as well
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Posted By: BlueTrain
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2013 at 8:09am
I doubt it's military. It was probably intended as a policeman's uniform. Didn't know Levi ever made anything out of wool. The western-style shoulder treatment is interesting.
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2013 at 3:37am
Interesting stuff as always Sansome. We are so lucky to have our own Levis archivists (outside the standard corporate machine) constantly redefining that early history - looking forward to the results
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2013 at 12:26pm
Sansome wrote:
Sorry for the late reply Heech and thanks for the heads up on the mag. When you get a chance... Can you post a better picture of the boon mag pic I posted already. |
Sansome.
Taken a little while, but I got there in the end.
Here are pics of that one pocket 201 (?) from 'Boon' volume 1 you asked for way back -
Here they are with two pairs of 1901's-
It's funny that the 201's have a selvedged one-piece waistband, and yet the two 1901-1914 pairs have a two piece waistband (?)
All of them have watch pockets below the waistband, as you would expect.
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2013 at 9:44pm
LVC had a showing at Unionmade Goods in SF tonight- they brought out some choice items from the archive, several of which I've never seen before.
1890 501s:
1880s boys ducks:
1900s duck closed-front jumper:
No matter how hard I try I can't get a clear shot of the buttons on the duck jumper. They are fantastic, and a mystery. The archivist (not Ms. Downey) said that no one can figure out what they are. I suppose they could be glass. They look like they could be some sort of bakelite, but I don't believe that was around yet.
1910s Koveralls:
1920s Sunset popover:
1900s denim jumper:
and the LVC remake of the denim jumper:
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Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 12:18am
Wow! Great archive shots mr randal, love the duck pics particularly - nice to see a close up of the label. Wonder what pen was used for handwritten sizes? Some Lvc gets closer to where (in my mind) the core of the brand should be - reproducing exact copies. Love the denim on that shirt - although the rivets need hammering, IMO they let it down a little. Again, really great shots! Made my morning.
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Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 6:29am
That button is amazing.
------------- I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .
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Posted By: Shorty Long
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 6:41am
goddamn i wish i lived in the bay area
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Posted By: Nonriveted
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 9:41am
awesome photos Mr. R, wish we could have been there! do you have any pics of the back of the first pair?
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Posted By: Snake
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 11:35am
That button looks like is made of some sort of native american gemstone. Very cool.
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 12:20pm
That's interesting, I had wondered if it could be some sort of stone or petrified wood even. What buttoning :) was available in the 1890s/1900s? Shell, glass, stone, wood... I've heard there was some sort of paper based product- celluloid? Something like an early Bakelite?
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 12:22pm
Nonriveted wrote:
awesome photos Mr. R, wish we could have been there! do you have any pics of the back of the first pair?
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I'm afraid not. :(
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Posted By: killer b
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 6:12pm
dude was wearing this handsome type 2 tonight. i went over all 'i fucking love your jacket' and shit, and he didn't really understand. fuck knows what you lot have done to me.
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Posted By: Bob Dale
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 6:19pm
(I think you're over your bandwidth) -- but a type two deserves all sorts of rep from me.
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Posted By: Snake
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 7:27pm
mr randal wrote:
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Ok. I think this is a "3-2.1 Body Style - Hollow Eye Mottled" china button. I found a pic from Buckeye State Button Society that looks similiar to this button except the color is different. http://www.buttoncountry.com/china.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.buttoncountry.com/china.html 8th row, 3rd button from the left. The green china button. A lot of info on buttons: http://www.ohiobuttons.org/EducationalLinks.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.ohiobuttons.org/EducationalLinks.html
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Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2013 at 7:42pm
I'll be damned! That is without a doubt the same, or an extremely similar, button in a different color. Who knew that denimbro would be such a good sourcing platform? Thanks, snake.
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Posted By: killer b
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 12:11am
Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 8:37am
If he was wearing an actual vintage type II, I'll bet he knew exactly what was going on. He was just trying to be too cool. Which he is.
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Posted By: eugene
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2013 at 11:12am
mr randal wrote:

and the LVC remake of the denim jumper:
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Great pictures of the denim jumper. But LVC must have used an earlier version? Was it just guessing that the jumper had arcs back in the 1870s and a triangular seam at the "buttoning front" . I'm asking because the original one is a piece from ca. 1900? LVC labels theirs as 1874. Do they have earlier original pieces?
Nevertheless, great pictures! Thank you, Mr. Randal!
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