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BRASS Tokyo

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Category: Denimbro
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URL: http://www.denimbro.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1194
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Topic: BRASS Tokyo
Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Subject: BRASS Tokyo
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 1:34am
We have all seen the remarkable work (and the denim porn) on the blog so i thought i would share my experience of the Hand Made CLINCH Engineer Boots by BRASS...

http://upic.me/i/qq/brass_tokyo_red_wing_3.jpg

http://acontinuouslean.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Brass_Tokyo_Red_Wing_1.jpg
Store images courtesy of acontinuouslean.

You have two choices of last below is the Work Round.



I opted for the Classic Narrow



There is a wonderful choice of leathers, buckles, soles ect

I went with..
Last : Classic Narrow
Process : Hand Sewn Welted
Upper Leather : Horween LATIGO BLACK overdye
Sole : Leather +Triumph 150 Boulevard Plate +HRS
Heel : Biltrite

DS soles, hard wear ect come at additional cost.
The boots are mto usually take 3-4months but currently running at 6months.
Cost is around 100000jpy my boots came to 110000yen + ship.
They ship at full cost and can not be persuaded otherwise so i had to scrub myself in the shower for many hours to remove the feeling i had when border charges came to £198.35

Sizing is a leap of faith they do not have boots in stock to measure but they are very helpful and knowledgeable about their product.
I sent my foot dimensions followed by photo's of my feet being measured followed by photo's of my boots being measured before i trepidatiously settled on the size 10 in the CN Last, quite daunting when you know you are a size 8-8.5 in almost every boot you own. They fit perfectly btw.

Coleslaw described them as "having a dress shoe mentality" i cant think of a better way of putting it.

Here they are..


First impressions out the box.



The Latigo is Peachy in colour lightly overdyed so should wear quickly to an interesting shade.


The saddle leather is ridiculously thick 3mm with 4mm used for the straps.

The pattern has been sympathetically cut using the more consistently black leather for the toe box.



The sole follows some lovely conteurs..


Chocolatey...




Replies:
Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 1:55am
Very nice Double 0. How many pairs of engineer boots do you own now and how do you rate them/which do you prefer?


Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 2:43am
^^ Knew that question was coming!

Very nice OO. So many nice and distinctive features on these. Guess I pinpoint that leather as my favorite though.

Wondering why I've never bothered to stop into this shop.........


Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 3:08am
awesome man better than any lofgren boots around waaaayy better


Posted By: rustbucket
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 6:03am
Stunning pair 00, just plain stunning, that leather...


Posted By: rayw44
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 6:04am
Great write up Double O. The boots look exceptional as well. It's really nice to hear your advice that you went up several sizes. I have considered ordering these, but sizing has always been the hold up.


Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 6:36am
ishmael i can say watever i want to say about a brand
and yes lofgren ia overpriced for the product he is selling specially
the boots and yes you arw lofgrens troll i believe and yes i think you and john
are [PERSONALLY ACQUAINTED WITH] each other aint ya?


Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 6:37am
00 you were talking to jun or brass? he did aome of my boots too.
great guy. awesome


Posted By: Sardine
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 6:37am
Great boots Double 0, I like the 30's (?) silhouette of these.  Are the toes meant to age at a different rate? It will be interesting to see how the over dyed leather will age/patina with this technique. 


Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 6:39am
from the way it looks its gonna age fast! awesome construction and the leather he chose
is the shit! awesome combo!


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 7:03am
Ed, Ishy play nicely please, There is just no need for it!

Maynard- Thanks old friend, I love different elements of each boot but the Buco takes some beating.

Mich- It really is something isn't it?

Ray- Appreciate it, I think we are not far off the same size foot should you need some sizes i would be happy to help you out.

Ed- I dealt with the 2 guys at brass, friendly and easy to work with.

Sardine- I don't think so, I assume they will cut the pattern from a side of Latigo the most sympathetic way rather than the most cost efficient allowing the patina to run in the same direction.

Thanks for all the kind words gentlemen.




Posted By: SLAB2
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 7:21am
those are some beautiful boots double O; looking forward to the evo pictures


Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 7:51am
Great looking boots! It's so refreshing to see block heels on a pair of engineer boots.


Posted By: Sardine
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 7:56am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

Ed, Ishy play nicely please, There is just no need for it!

Maynard- Thanks old friend, I love different elements of each boot but the Buco takes some beating.

Mich- It really is something isn't it?

Ray- Appreciate it, I think we are not far off the same size foot should you need some sizes i would be happy to help you out.

Ed- I dealt with the 2 guys at brass, friendly and easy to work with.

Sardine- I don't think so, I assume they will cut the pattern from a side of Latigo the most sympathetic way rather than the most cost efficient allowing the patina to run in the same direction.

Thanks for all the kind words gentlemen.

I meant that if all of the latigo is overdyed, the toes seem to have been dyed more evenly, or maybe twice? I was wondering if this is to account for the greater wear the toes areas will get, maybe this equates to more even patina as they age and are worn.  Beautiful lifetime boots regardless.




Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 8:37am
Thanks Sardine, I think the leather is over dyed as a side before the pattern is cut out, rather than the toe box cut out and dyed independently. (if that's what you mean)  If the pieces were cut out first and then dyed the edges would be black too. If you see the 3rd photo up from the bottom you can see the unevenness (for want of a better word) of the colour on the piece of leather forming the toe box where it is stitched to the heel counter. I personally think that the leather is more absorbent in some places than others causing the streaky effect the more absorbent areas will take a more uniform dye and the toe box will be cut out of the most evenly dyed section so when you look down both of your feet look identical. Of course the toe box could be cut from a different piece of leather but it does not appear that way when you look at them in the flesh.


Posted By: jsant002
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 11:02am
awesome boots!!! now time for some pics on your feet!


Posted By: *lefty*
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 11:16am
There doesn't seem to be a top-end for engineer boots - for price or quality. "The best" just keeps getting better. 

beautiful boots


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https://instagram.com/thetwoclicks" rel="nofollow - https://instagram.com/thetwoclicks


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 12:06pm
Indeed lefty, 100 years ago it was the dress shoe now its the work boot, how peoples aspirations have changed.
Thanks btw.

Smoothsailor- I will update with evolution but in order to keep the thread from becoming one dimensional can you post your BRASS resole please? before and after pics would be better still... If its no bother.


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 1:31pm
Great to finally see a pair of these up close, they're better than I expected.  Congrats 00.

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I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: robroy
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 1:38pm
00 those are stunners. I love the overdyed leathers, but good lord that is a thick hide. What's it like trying to break those in???
Thanks for sharing, please post more pictures!


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 1:52pm
OO

Lovely, actually, fantastic boots - but can you say more about the leather? I don't get the 'overdye' bit.


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 1:53pm
Double o, fantastic! Was there an option to swap things around, for instance the sole and heel combo of the work last on the narrow last?
I need to take photo's of my resoled boots, butt will do that soon


Posted By: Sardine
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 3:52pm
Double O, I know what you are saying about seeing a raw cut area if it was dyed afterwords, I was wondering if they chose parts of the leather side for vamp, shaft, etc.. then dyed accrodingly. It's just that these boots are so thoughtfully made it doesn't seem like a much darker toe would just happen. Just an observation. Epic boots, wear them in good health and loking forward to their evolution. 



Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 5:23pm
rhey added more dye on the existing leather they have if in not mistaken


Posted By: rnrswitch
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 7:05pm
Originally posted by hollows hollows wrote:

Great to finally see a pair of these up close, they're better than I expected.  Congrats 00.


If by "up close", you mean pics on the Internet, then I too am glad to see these "up close."

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Too bad your momma's a bitch, cuz I totally coulda been your daddy.


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 7:35pm
You are quickly becoming the king of black engineer boots, and those look insanely nice.  Do they offer them in horsehide?


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2014 at 1:21am
Duke- When dying the leather Horween will pour a thick dye "over" the surface of the side of leather then spread it out with a spatula so it only dyes the surface leaving the core au naturale. BRASS will buy the side of leather and cut out the pattern accordingly. If you see the second sample pair of engineers in the op they are black all the way through therefor the leather will have been completely submerged in dye, dying the leather all the way through (not over-dyed). I doubt that shoemakers have anything to do with the dying process...Hollows is your man to speak too here, he knows more about this than i do.

Smoothsailor- Pg7 of the blog has all the info you require explaining the customisable options... There is at least 15 variations for the heel/sole combo that will work on either the WR or CN Last lace ups or engineer.

Ben- I think Ray will hold the honorary title of king of black engineer boots for some years yet.
Sadly no HH but still a fine repertoire including 10 variations of Horween Latigo, 2 CXL, Bull Hide ect ect.


Posted By: the bandanna almanac
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2014 at 7:38am
Brass is probably the only place I actually appreciate when I am in Tokyo. There is really no other place like it in Japan. 

That over-dyed leather looks incredibly good. Excellent choice 00

I think even on their web site they don't list all the options. They have an incredible variation of soles and heels... Even the boot repair guys I have fix my heels in Kobe always sigh when I mention that place. 




Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2014 at 8:50am
jonathan have you been to fukurokuju? where in kobe is this place?how much does he charge?


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 12:45am
I don't want to steal double o glory, but here's my redwing resole by Brass.
They were easy to work with, even dough their english wasn't to good it was all clear.
They resoled them like I asked them and made them a size smaller. No photo from before , but they are redwing beckman 9015.




Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 12:58am
Marvelous! They look perfectly balanced with the double leather mid-sole. Much more refined than the off the shelf 9015. What was the cost? i have heard 300usd for that kind of work.


Posted By: edmond
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 1:08am
around 210 plus shipping


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 1:19pm
I don't remember exactly but around 350 euro.
Its a bit crazy I know, but they do great work.
I start to seriously consider going for a pair of boots from them. But the why thread that Hollows started a while back keeps stuck in my mind to



Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2014 at 2:58am
I wouldn't pay any attention smoothsailor, hollows never did Wink


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2014 at 3:47am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

I wouldn't pay any attention smoothsailor, hollows never did Wink

that's how it probably goes


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2014 at 6:26am
Aw come on!  I sorta did! ....sorta.  Definitely keeping things in check compared to a year ago.


Posted By: jsant002
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2014 at 12:18pm
would love to see an update on these double 0!!!


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2014 at 1:35am
They have barely made it out the box jsant, Don't worry though all good things will come to those who wait.
Is patience really virtuous? or just a waste of time.


Posted By: daizawaguy
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2014 at 3:34pm
My heels curved specially by Brass from the standard block heel. Lovely balance.




Posted By: daizawaguy
Date Posted: 01 Aug 2014 at 3:36pm


Posted By: Barns
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2014 at 10:26am
Looking at all the awesome end results here, I am excited about my engineers. They have given me an ETC in September (6 weeks turnaround time, not bad). Looking forward to share mine here when they are back!  


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 10:25am








Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2014 at 2:31pm
The Dr Doolittle of Denimbro has some mighty fancy footwear.

Very very nice.


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2014 at 12:57am
My kid is the "Dr Doolittle" of Denimbro i merely offer a supporting role as photographer. Regrettably his footwear collection is shit!


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2014 at 1:44am


I blame the parents . . .


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 7:06am
Now being stocked at Pancho & Lefty.  That store is turning into real mecca of Japanese brands in Europe now.

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I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: b_F
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 7:47am
^are they the successor of Mr Mudd & Mr Gold? The webshop (and products) reminds me of them. It was also a Stockholm-based shop

edit: found the answer...yes they are


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 7:53am
Same guys - I think the original venture struggled on until it became not worth the effort.

Hopefully this incarnation is successful. Their brand list is an interesting selection.


Posted By: SLAB2
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 9:37am
I think part of their catalogue was taken from their previous venture; most notably some of the BR, Wesco and Warehouse items


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 12:37pm
Just have a look at those Clinch Engineers at Pancho & Lefty...

Look at the view looking down on the toe box? the bump makes me think they have been built on the WR last (with a more bulbous toe)
Looks the these doesn't it?
http://brass5812.img.jugem.jp/20130920_151583.jpg

The boots built on the CN last below are (as you might have guessed) a narrow fit so to help you pull them on they have canvas finger pulls on the inside of the shaft indicated by the stitch detail on each side they are the anchor points.

http://blog.sturdy-web.com/images/ClinchSturdyEngineerBootsHorweenLeatherHandDyeLimtedModel01.jpg

Because of the wider fit i did not think the boots built on the WR had or indeed needed the pulls therefor you don't see that detail on the boots built on the WR last but the Clinch Engineers (last 001?) at P&L have it?



Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 1:33pm
Seems weird that they wouldn't have specified the last that was used on what would be such an expensive purchase... also, is it just me, or does it look somewhat clown like from the side on their site? Not too flattering!


Posted By: superfuzz
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 3:54pm
I agree, the toe on those is just comically large. The CN last, on the other hand, is one of the nicest engineer boots out there, IMO.


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 6:03pm
I greatly prefer the CN as well (at least if we're usin panchos pics). The only thing I don't like is that in some pics the toe area looks a tad flat for an engineer...


Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 6:17pm
Ben, do you own a pair of engineers?


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 7:39pm
No sir, not yet... But I've been jonesing for a while. I actually don't own any boots, but from reading everything I'm leaning toward wesco (with black horsehide from Giles), or what Brian is doing.

These are super beautiful though, does anyone know if BRASS is open for customers? Ill be in Tokyo for a few days in about a week, I've got to check these out...


Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 10:09pm
No boots?

Google is your friend. Looks like they're open from noon to 8. Closed on Wednesdays. I'd probably walk from Shimokita Station.




Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 10:18pm
Nope, no boots.  Thanks!  Maybe i've read this wrong, but is Wednesday a special day over in Japan?  It seems like at least a few other places are also closed on wednesday?


Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 10:46pm
Yes, Hump Day. Hard to operate a store when your balls deep.

(kidding, of course, but actually that would be the exact holiday Japan needs!)


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2014 at 10:48pm
Lol


Posted By: rustbucket
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2014 at 2:07am
I'm also not too fond of the shape of the pair at Pancho & Lefty, think they're on the Work Round last by the looks of it.
It might be partly due to the cork sole which seems to have a bit of a strange looking curve to it.
They mention it's also possible to do a custom order through P&L, so it should be possible to let Brass build a pair using the CN last with all the specs you desire.


Posted By: indigo_eagle
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2014 at 3:35am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:




The boots built on the CN last below are (as you might have guessed) a narrow fit so to help you pull them on they have canvas finger pulls on the inside of the shaft indicated by the stitch detail on each side they are the anchor points.

http://blog.sturdy-web.com/images/ClinchSturdyEngineerBootsHorweenLeatherHandDyeLimtedModel01.jpg

These look amazing.



Posted By: SLAB2
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2014 at 2:15pm
aren't those the ones sold by Sturdy?


Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2014 at 4:08pm
99% sure that pic is from Sturdy.


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 12:56am
Sorry guys only just seen this, Yes drool worthy indeed the image was pulled from Sturdy, the shape is no different to the CN Lasted Engineers that you can order direct from BRASS, Sturdy also exclusively stock a nice lace up built on the CN.
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsturdy%2Bclinch%2Bengineer%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3D2kJ%26rls%3Dcom.google:en-US:official%26channel%3Dsb%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D647&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&sl=ja&u=http://sturdy-web.com/%3Fpid%3D68703791&usg=ALkJrhjnk734EhJg37-MSvn-uGkguhK67g" rel="nofollow">CLINCH × Sturdy clinch star di bespoke 6



Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 1:08am
Not sure what I'd do with those. Door stops? Fly swatters?

(i.e. I wish these guys made sasquatch sizes).


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 1:53am
They re-soled and hand welted a military boot for a US customer with these Vibram soles, Looks sasquatchy to me. How they must have laughed?



The lace ups are brown leather which with wear breaks through the burgundy over-dye, Damn! that sounds good.




Posted By: Barns
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2014 at 7:05am

Went for the single mid sole option. It is most probably the most expensive resole I have ever done for a pair of boots... but the workmanship is perfection! The rubber soles seem to be able to last for many years to come 


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2014 at 8:33pm
which engineers are those barns? resole looks very nice.


Posted By: Barns
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2014 at 8:33am
Originally posted by Ben Ben wrote:

which engineers are those barns? resole looks very nice.

Those are Phigvel.... 


Posted By: davito
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2015 at 4:37am
After a patient wait the good people at panchoandlefty send me this beauty. I love it always wanted a workshoe like this.
My usual size in boots is US8D i went with a size 9 and fit is supercomfy. Leather is nice brown-overdyed latigo, different colorshade depending on lightning



Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2015 at 4:43am
cool Davito, did you find out about the toe? will it collapse a bit?

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dislectic


Posted By: davito
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2015 at 4:49am
Hi man i believe it will on pressure/usage but really like that shape and just let it go and see. I think it will stay more or less like on my buco meaning no collaps unless you force it imho. Thx Sir


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2015 at 5:07am
^ thanks I def would not force the toe to collapse , was just curious about it. Great boots enjoy them

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dislectic


Posted By: daizawaguy
Date Posted: 03 May 2015 at 3:08pm
http://blog.brass-tokyo.com

Check out the latest stuff from Brass!


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 12:07am
The^ HH on the classic narrow look to be drool worthy perfection! Can't get along with the bulbous toe of the work round though.

Thanks for posting man, you should chime in around here more often.


Posted By: daizawaguy
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 5:11am
Thanks - I have a made to order lace up work boot with soft toe in black CXL on order, with delivery in September or so. Will post pics when I receive them, cheers!


Posted By: daizawaguy
Date Posted: 04 May 2015 at 5:13am
You can see more Clinch boots by Brass on the following swedish site

http://panchoandlefty.se/product-category/brand/clinch/


Posted By: daizawaguy
Date Posted: 05 May 2015 at 3:50pm
Engineer boots




Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 1:54am
About 9 months ago I ordered these. Send them pictures from their own blog and told them my shoe sizes from different brands, and it was a go. Surprisingly they didn't ask for a deposit, so after about 6/7 months I asked if they forgot about me. They didn't, and here they are.
natural latigo leather on CN last, with soft toe and a thin dress half sole and catspaw heels.
The leather is very thick and sturdy. When I first put them on, I couldn't get my left foot in, so started to sweat. Used a plastic bag and slid right in. The fit is very narrow especially on the instep.
They needed to get stretched a bit so I put on 3 pairs of thick ski socks and a plastic bag and I crammed my feet in. Tried to wear them like that for a few hours per day. That didn't really work. So filled it up with warm water let it soak for half an hour and put them on to work, from 9 till 9.
Immediately I felt the leather to loosen a bit. They didn't dry in one day, it needed 3 days to completely dry. I still needed to use a plastic bag to get them on for the next 4 days, during those days I put on and off severall times. Now its all good, still snug but I guess thats the CN fit.

Some pictures, the last one came from Clinch to show they were done and cough up the dough.
Looking at the pictures I see that the left boot is a bit shorter, The left boot is also the hardest to get in.




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dislectic


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 2:43am
Terrific smoothsailor - thanks for posting these up.
 
What size are you in these boots v. your other engineers?


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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 3:26am
Simply stunning Paul! I also still struggle to get the left boot on my foot but they do fit like a glove comfiest shit i own.
I will re-insert the missing images from the op when i get 5.


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 3:46am
thanks,
Duke I wear 10.5 in lofgrens they fit roomy. Role club is custom fit but I believe the box said size 11, same as these Clinch size 11. The Lofgrens are def the biggest 


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dislectic


Posted By: davito
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 4:06am
Congrats smoothsailor enjoy your Clinch topnotch


Posted By: gonboogaloo
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 4:09am
Agreed! These are gorgeous smoothsailor - I really love the color! I was already having enough trouble resisting the new lofgrens...


Posted By: joona
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2015 at 5:00am
Thanks for the pics smoothsailor, stunning pair. Undyed latigo looks very, very promising. Looking forward to evo pics too.

Your experiences give me some hope too. I got the brown hand dyed latigo engineer boots in CN last from Pancho & Lefty ~ three months ago. Still need to break them in though. So far I've had only a chance to wear them few times indoors and once outside before I broke my ankle.. anyway, I've had some struggle getting them on without plastic bag and especially getting them off. Glad to hear that your soaking trick worked out, I may have to try it too!

I find the heel cup somewhat roomy for my very narrow ankles and there's some heel slippage due to it, I hope that the heel slippage will atleast partly go away once they are fully broken in.

By the way, they left the part below the strap undyed in the Pancho & Lefty's brown hand dyed engineer boots. I found it a bit odd, but I quite like the detail. Just a heads up for those who might consider them.


Also big thanks for Double 0 Soul for the pics (I hope you get them up again) and details about Clinch, those were really helpful when I was contemplating which engineer boots to get.


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2015 at 10:10am
http://www.denimbro.com/brass-tokyo_topic1194_page1.html" rel="nofollow - Done it.
Glad i could be of service joona, I went up 1.5 sizes and i still say "comfiest shit i own" like a firm handshake, but this is solely dependent on foot width. Im an E trying to make a narrow last work.


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2015 at 12:04pm
How are yours coming along Double O?
Joona, if you do the soaking trick, try to wear them as long as possible , plus the next day. I,m no expert but I think it settles when its almost dry.


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dislectic


Posted By: Bobobears
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2015 at 7:52pm
Mine are coming Friday. Brown hand dyed. I wish they were Undyed, those look SOOO good. What size are you in red wing , I'm a 9.5, I also got clinch size 11


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2015 at 7:53pm
I'd love to see evo.

I think these look really awesome with a slightly higher heel than what I've seen, and I think how 00's are. Do yours have a higher heel smoothsailor?

Some of the side shots didn't do it for me and I think that's what it was. Also like the more square buckle as opposed to the rectangular...


Posted By: Bobobears
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2015 at 7:56pm
I wonder if I can strip the dye off? If so how?


Posted By: Bobobears
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2015 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by Ben Ben wrote:

I'd love to see evo.

I think these look really awesome with a slightly higher heel than what I've seen, and I think how 00's are. Do yours have a higher heel smoothsailor?

Some of the side shots didn't do it for me and I think that's what it was. Also like the more square buckle as opposed to the rectangular...

I agree , but now that I see these they look so much better broken in because the toe flattens and the vamp conforms to the top of the foot, it doesn't look as "long"


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 1:09am
Smoothsailor- I don't have much more evo than yours im trying to keep at least one pair of boots looking swish avoiding the scuffs and paint splats that dog all my other boots.

I first read about the water trick (i was discussing it recently with indigo_eagle i think) around the military boot blogs, squaddies soaking their leather boots and marching them dry. Its also spoken of at length around the cowboy boot forums by fellas who are also splurging $1000+ on their footwear but this is all well and good if you live with a climate where its hot enough to walk a pair of boots dry in 3-4 hours where i live it would take 3-4 weeks. If you take the boots off before fully dry the leather can contract back sometimes tighter than where you started.

I have also read about faster results obtained through another technique of freezing where you spray the boots with Isopropyl line them out with a plastic bag and fill it with water, place them in a chest freezer the water turns to ice and expands by 5% or so giving you instant stretch.

Ben- Two reasons why i went with the block heel instead of stack.
1st up i wanted them to look different from other engineer boots that i own if you are chasing the perfect engineer boot you can end up with 3-4 pairs that look very much the same. Imo they suit an uncuffed wider hem/looser leg denim more so than the later inspired Buco.
2nd there is not much space in the toe box and i didn't want extra pressure on my toes, the JL,s have a flat toe and my little toes can sometimes become sore after prolonged wear because of the lack of space this would be compounded with the narrow fitting/stacked heel.

Bobo- Im all for a little experiment but stripping the dye? thats just crazy talk!


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 1:27am
Gotcha 00, makes sense, diversity is always good.

Bobo, don't fuck with them, you'll probably just ruin them. Enjoy them, they look awesome hand dyed!


Posted By: davito
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 4:00am
Bobo i have linked you some days ago to @loveusame on IG he somehow "shaped" the dye off his P&L narrows. I wouldnt do it myself, i Love the overdyed leather on mine workshoes and laceups.
those overdyed narrows just look fantastic imho just wear and enjoy them man


Posted By: Bobobears
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 5:16am
Originally posted by davito davito wrote:

Bobo i have linked you some days ago to @loveusame on IG he somehow "shaped" the dye off his P&L narrows. I wouldnt do it myself, i Love the overdyed leather on mine workshoes and laceups.
those overdyed narrows just look fantastic imho just wear and enjoy them man

They do look good but I have 9000 brown boots. Mabey I could dye them black so with wear the brown comes back, anyone know about that process?


Posted By: Ben
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 10:00am
Smooth sailor, are you unhappy the left boot is noticeably shorter than the right? Seems weird to me...


Posted By: Bobobears
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 10:42am
Originally posted by Ben Ben wrote:

Smooth sailor, are you unhappy the left boot is noticeably shorter than the right? Seems weird to me...

I feel like it could be a size lower. If you look at the picture from the back the whole boot even the back stay looks smaller


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 11:48am
Ben, I don't mind it at all. Bobo, the backstay indeed is a bit smaller, some other measurements are also smaller, wouldn't a size smaller. It doesn't fit smaller.

Double O, wise decision on the heel and keeping them nice. Brian from Role club mentioned to use rub alcohol on the part that needs stretching. Somehow the alcohol enters the pore's of the leather easily. 



-------------
dislectic


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 12:12pm
It relaxes the fibers and allows the stretch, I did a little demo in the shoes thread a few years back using Isopropyl and "home made" wooden stretchers.


Posted By: Bobobears
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2015 at 12:47pm
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

It relaxes the fibers and allows the stretch, I did a little demo in the shoes thread a few years back using Isopropyl and "home made" wooden stretchers.
I personally tried the alcohol method with Santa Rosa boots by zip, they didn't budge a millimeter. After about 6-8 tries soaked vamp in alcohol and wore them till dry



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