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MILITARIA PLUS (Workware,Cabourn,Kapital,etc) |
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mr randal 
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 Topic: MILITARIA PLUS (Workware,Cabourn,Kapital,etc)Posted: 28 May 2020 at 5:52pm |
     Edited by mr randal - 29 May 2020 at 8:13am |
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mr randal
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Posted: 28 May 2020 at 6:05pm |
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I don't know that this style has an official name, here or abroad, but my sense of it really jelled when I saw images of Patrick Wong, owner of Workware Hong Kong, on IG. Wong's series of fits in oversized and slightly stylized military garments in his signature crisp, rounded silhouette really caught my interest. At the time I was feeling pretty bunt out on what the denim scene had come to (costly never-ending pursuit of the latest and greatest small batch 507 & '30s-'50s 5-pocket jeans). This, I thought, feels like something new and exciting. The components aren't exactly new- a lot of older military repros are cut sufficiently wide to fit this mold, and some brands like Kapital & Needles have been making oversized or funkily detailed military style garments for years, but this type of military reproduction intersected so nicely with the modern trend of oversized jackets and wide, cropped pants. I think the primary supplier of this style is Workware HK, but also Club Stubborn, Bronson Manufacturing Co, Kapital, Engineered Garments and a few others also tap this vein.
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dudewuttheheck
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Joined: 25 Sep 2016 Location: OC Status: Offline Points: 8626 |
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Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:38pm |
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The pants might be too wide for me even, but I do love a lot of those jackets.
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CSL
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anonymous Joined: 15 Feb 2014 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 19915 |
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Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:45pm |
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Mark, Do you follow Dexter Store Firenze (dexter_store_firenze) on IG? He's doing stuff fairly close to the styles you posted here.
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Iron Horse
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Joined: 20 Nov 2014 Location: Taiwan Status: Offline Points: 5876 |
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:07am |
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I suppose it’s an offshoot from what Nigel Cabourn has been doing? Either way getting quite popular.
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Mr Black
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anonymous Joined: 08 Feb 2012 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 15129 |
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:27am |
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I’m particularly taken with this jacket by club stubborn
https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green |
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www.sidewinderapparel.co.uk
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Mr. Q
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Joined: 29 Aug 2014 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 10875 |
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:57am |
 I really like that design! Not sure about that lightweight nylon tho. I think Eastlogue also belongs here.  ^ I tried this on at Bloomingdale's (a special selection from their Korean buyer) and loved it, but it was also in a crinkly nylon and couldn't stand the whoosing sound it made everytime I moved.
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mr randal
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 1:52am |
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Iron Horse- you are very right, Nigel Cabourn is in many ways the poster child for this style. A lot of the offerings from Club Stubborn seem to be “homages” to cabourn items, though when both are tweaked versions of military pieces I guess the influence comes down to pointing to where to borrow?
He was certainly the first designer I know of to go so boldly into making casually worn, loosely cut military apparel into streetwear. CSL & Mr Q- thanks, I’ll take a look at those. |
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Blood&Thunder
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 6:36am |
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Eastlogue does some fantastic stuff. The parka below is by them and I have been very happy with it.
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mr randal
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:16am |
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B & T, in the spirit of this thread I have to point out that your pants are far too narrow. I don’t think you could get both feet through one pant leg, which is apparently mandatory for the look.
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Mr Black wrote: