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LEVI'S Vintage Clothing Japan (LVCJ) |
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mr randal ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() MDLD Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Status: Offline Points: 50863 |
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1986-1990 The whole idea of Levi's Vintage Clothing started with the Levi's Japan division in the late '80s. Due in part to an exploding interest in Japan for vintage American clothing, Levi's Japan began manufacturing replicas of Levi's jeans and denim jackets for the Japanese market. The earliest example of a repro type offering from Levi’s japan that I have found is the 701VB from 1986. This was a limited edition ‘37 501 type, with doughnut buttons and a linen tab. I think this variation sheds some light on the doughnut buttons found on the later 702 and the “201” designation found on the 555 ‘37s- perhaps the original model for this offering was indeed an early WWII 201 Jean. Offered in a light stone wash. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() In 1987 the offerings available from the "Vintage Levi's" section of Levi's Japan were: 701XX (later renamed the 702XX, a '37 type 501 with doughnut buttons) 502XX (a '60s type 501 with a zip fly and a straight leg) 70701XX (a WWII 506 type jacket) 70702XX (a 506 type jacket) With the 503BXXJ making its first appearance in 1988. All of these models were available in two modes- rigid or heavily stonewashed. ![]() ![]() Above are images from the SS1988 Levis Japan catalog, courtesy of ajifurai_vintage. Edited by mr randal - 04 Mar 2020 at 8:43pm |
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mr randal ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() MDLD Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Status: Offline Points: 50863 |
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1990-1996 In 1990 Levi's Japan started putting more energy and care into their vintage offerings. The primitive looking stone washing receded to the background in favor of rigid releases, and patterns seem to have been recut to more authentic proportions. New models were gradually added up until 1996. In 1991 LVCJ released a series of their cuts made from natural indigo dyed denim: the 701SXX. the 503BSXX, and the 7701SXX (a bedford s71506). In 1993/1994 they released a series of models made from an ivory pique (or Bedford cord): the 702-11 ('93), the 504z-11 ('94), and the 71506-11 (94). A 505 and a 517 were offered in the Levi's Japan catalog for SS 1992, but these items were listed as being under the "Originals" sub-brand rather than under the "Vintage" sub-brand, so I am doubtful that they were intended to be reproductions. From varying years (for each model) Levi's Japan produced the following Jean & jacket models. As I can verify them I'll add measurements for each model. Measurements will be, unless otherwise stated, for originally raw models (not distressed versions) that seem to have been fully shrunk, after a warm wash and before further wear. Done BIG style. Anyone with jeans that meet these criteria, please contribute measurements! 702XX (1930s) ![]() ![]() ![]() Measurements (33 x 36) w 33 th 13 kn 9.75 inseam 35 hem 9 f rise 11.75 r rise 15.5702SXX (natural indigo 37 type offered in 1991 only) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 503BXX (1950s button fly) straighter legged than a LVC '55 jean, possibly based on a Boys 501, but made here in adult [Japanese adult] sizes.) ![]() ![]() Measurements (36 x 31) w 17.75 th 13 kn 10 hem 9.2 f rise 12 r rise 17 504ZXX (1950s zipper fly) The 504z has a less exaggerated silhouette than the carrot-shaped LVC '55. For jeans with approximately the same waist size, a 504z will have a slightly higher rise and wider thigh than the '55, and a less pronounced taper, with the cuff being about an inch wider on the 504z. Offset rear belt loop, leather tag, and Talon zip. Produced 1994-1996. ![]() ![]() ![]() Measurements (33 x 36) w 33 th 13.5 kn 10 hem 9.25 f rise 12.75 r rise 16.75 inseam 36 1960s button fly ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The above jean was a Valencia street model that predates the early US LVC offerings- the one pictured was made in 1995. Levi's Japan sold the American version from 555 and not a made in japan model of a '60s button fly. 502-XX (1960s zipper fly) ![]() ![]() ![]() Measurements (33 x 36) w 33 th 12.75 kn 9.3 inseam 36 hem 8.4 f rise 12 r rise 15.5 551zxx (1962) Seemed to have been offered only for one season in 1995, the Japanese version of the 551ZXX apparently being retired in favor of the US version. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() s71506 (WWII era 506- 1944) A simplified version of the 506 jacket produced originally to meet war effort regulations to conserve material. This version uses donut buttons, has no pocket flap, and typically would have a reduced number of 4 placket buttons. This early LVCJ edition had 5 buttons. Before 1990 or 92 the leather patch stamp read "70506", changing to just "506" in 1996, then to "506XX" in 1999 or 2000. By 1998 the button number had been reduced to 4 and conforms very closely to the pattern of the US LVC wartime 506. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 71506-11 ![]() ![]() ![]() 71507 Type II (1953) Debuting in 1992 the leather patch stamp read "70507", changing to just "507" in 1996, then to "507XX" in 1999 or 2000. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 71557 (type 3) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Continues on page 2 with the years 1996-1999 Edited by mr randal - 13 Mar 2020 at 4:09pm |
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Sansome ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 14492 |
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Last year thrifting, in a sea of crap jeans totaling over 300 pairs, the very last one was what might be an early LVC japan 501. Should I post that here, or over on the LVC thread?
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mr randal ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() MDLD Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Status: Offline Points: 50863 |
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Post it here, let's see.
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Sansome ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 14492 |
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I’ll make it so. And while I’m at it- I’ll take pics of the 2002 war time Type 1 jacket. I’ll post that on the reg LVC thread. |
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Sansome ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 14492 |
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I was talking with Mr Randal the other day- It would seem, back in the 1940's, someone at Levi's wanted to celebrate 100 years in business in 1950. From this point- all the way into the 1990's, you would see (since 1850) In the 1990's Lynn D set the record straight. I did the math on this pair- it looks like they were starting at 1850- so for over 140 years takes it just past 1990. So i think that's what's going on here?
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mr randal ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() MDLD Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Status: Offline Points: 50863 |
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Ah, a LVCJ 503b from 1992.
I have a theory about this model- I think 503 was a Levi’s boys/young men’s line, and was popular as vintage in Japan in the ‘80s as the smaller sizes worked well for a lot of Japanese guys. I suspect that LVCJ created this model as a wider legged version of their '50s jean (no taper), and used the familiar 503 number. Edited by mr randal - 02 Feb 2020 at 4:02pm |
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LazyS ![]() whiskered ![]() ![]() Joined: 26 Sep 2013 Status: Offline Points: 1474 |
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![]() ![]() ![]() too short for me at 28 inch inseam
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mr randal ![]() ADMIN ![]() ![]() MDLD Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Status: Offline Points: 50863 |
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If that was a 34W I'd take it off your hands! I recently got a practically unworn pair of s702XX '33s from yahoo.jp that I'm really liking. Seems as good if not better than any LVC US product in construction and materials, though I think historical accuracy did improve gradually over the years.
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LazyS ![]() whiskered ![]() ![]() Joined: 26 Sep 2013 Status: Offline Points: 1474 |
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hows the fit? did you get 34 or 36? the last lvc 66 i got before cone closed were really shoddy
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