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Levi Strauss 1870's to 1960's

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buler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (5) Thanks(5)   Quote buler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 11:01am
On Levi's blog, they state the patent number as 1999927.  See http://www.levistrauss.com/unzipped-blog/2017/07/80-year-cover/
 
This patent comes up on the search site as being from April 30, 1935. I couldn't pull the images from the patent up on the patent search site, but going thru google.patent search finds it: https://patents.google.com/patent/US1999927A/en
 
 
Text description:
 
Description
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<-tooltip ="style-scope patent-text" id="tooltip">

April 30,1935.

M. GRUNBAUM RIVETED GARMENT Filed July 7, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet '1 I N V EN TOR.

RmS.

W 7 ATTO h- H I I H P ul l l A ril 30, 1935. M.j GRUNBAUM RIVE'ITED GARMENT Filed July 7, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. m9mw 4&7 WW

ATTORNE Patented Apr. 3Q, 1935 umrsu STATES RIVETED GARMENT Milton 'Grunbauin, sen rraneiscq oaur. 7 Application July 7, 1934, Serial No. 734,073

concealed.

In the manufacture of garments, such as overails and the like, it is common practice to reinforce and strengthen s'uch garments at the points subjected -to the greatest strain; for instance, at the corn'ers 'Of the pockets, at the crotch of the pants, and so on, by placing copper rivets at these points.

" Overalls are worn by many people and among them eattl'emeh, farmers, and but'door workers. In the case of battlem'en, the projecting rivets often scratch or mar the saddle leather. In the case of farmers ate other outdoor 'wor-k= e'r's who use automobiles more than horses, there is a chance that the rivets may scratch the finish of the car, the .upholsterihg, the furniture in the home, and so on, and besides that the rivets are unsightly and do not add but rather detract from the finish and'general appearance of the garment.

The object of the present invention is generally to improve theconstruction and operation of garments of the character described, and especially to so construct and arrange the fabric during the assembling and sewing thereof that the reinforcing rivets will become covered and concealed and thereby improve the appearance of the garment, and more important avoid scratching or marring of the objects with which the garments-may contact.

The garment and the method of applying the reinforcing rivets thereto is shown by way of illustration in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of a pocket blank such as used in forming a patch pocket.

Fig. 2 shows the blank hemmed along the top and two side edges and ready for application to the garment.

Fig. 3 shows the manner in which the corners of the pocket patch are riveted to the garment.

Fig. 4 shows a completed patch pocket.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged section taken on line V-V of Fig. 4, showing the manner in which the rivets are covered and concealed.

Fig. 6 shows a portion of a garment having an insert pocket formed therein, this view also showing the position of the reinforcing rivets.

Referring to the drawings in detail, particularly Fig. 4, A indicates the body of the material forming the garment and B a patch pocket attached thereto.

Patch pockets are usually reinforced at the corners, indicated at 2 and 3, by passing rivets through the material forming the patch of the pocket and also through the body material but as previously" stated such rivets'pro'ject from the fabric or material and-as-such are liable to scratch and mar objects with which the material comes in Contact;

To cover and conceal the rivets the following method of "construction and assembly is resorted to. By referring to Fig. 1, which is a plan view of the blank forming the patch or the pocket, it will be noted that the end indicated 'at 4 will, when the pocket is finished, form the upper edge or entrance to the pocket. This edge is cut at tii'e points in'dicated'a't 5 and 6 to a suitable depth so as to permit the material indicated at l to be folded upon itself tdrorm a finished hem as shown at 8 in Fig. 2. The sides of the 'patcn'are then folded along the dotted lines indicated at spa andthese side folds orm the side heme or the patch and they anorermtm projecting tabs; such as indicated at m re. when a blank has been cut, folde'dg alnd hemmed; it is places he the body material A of the garment, as shown in Figs 3, and the tabs iii-l0 are riveted to the-body material by rivets ll--l I. The pocket or patch is then folded back upon itself so as to cover and conceal the rivets and to lie flat against the body material of the garment, and when so folded will assume the position shown in Fig. 4; the pocket being finally completed by stitching it along the sides and the bottom as indicated by dotted lines at l2, l3 and i4.

Fig. 5 clearly shows the manner in which the rivet is covered and concealed and so does Fig. 4.

The manner of covering and concealingthe rivet is'not limited to the construction of patch pockets alone. It is equally applicable to other parts of the garment, for instance to an insert type of pocket such as shown in Fig. 6. In this instance the strip of material forming the waistband and indicated at I5 is folded over the rivet indicated in dotted lines at It, and thus covers one of the rivets. A second rivet indicated in dotted lines at l! is covered by the section of body material indicated at l8, which is folded over. The opening to the insert pocket is indicated at l9, and the pocket material is indicated by dotted lines at 20.

In forming the crotch of the pants the rivet is placed as indicated by dotted lines at 2|, and

when so placed, becomes covered with the material.

Sufiice it to say that rivets, or other reinforcing means employed, may be placed wherever desired and when placed in the manner described will become covered and concealed with material,

of rivets, staples, other metallic or similar fastening means may be employed and covered and concealed in the same manner, and while the invention has, been described in conjunction with overalls it is obviously applicable to garments .of varying types; and while other features of the invention have been more or less specifically described, I wish it understood that various changes may be resorted to within the scope of the appended claims. Similarly, that the materials and finish of the several parts employed may be such,

as the manufacturer may decide, or varying conditions or uses may demand.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters'Patent is- 1. A method of riveting a patch pocket to a garment and covering and concealing the rivets, which consists in providing a patch pocket with rivet receiving tabs at opposite sides of its upper edge, positioning the pocket in inverted order in superimposed contacting relation on the garment,

aflixing rivets through the garment and through said tabs at points adjacent to the ends of the the portion of the blank intermediate the points at which it is cut and hemming the same thereby providing a reenforced pocket mouth portion and projecting tabs at opposite sides of said reenforced mouth, folding over portions of the remaining side edges of the pocket blank and said tabs into superposed contacting relationship to reenforce the same, positioning the pocket blank thus formed in inverted superimposed contacting relation with respect to the garment to which it is to be seamed, inserting a metallic reenforcing and fastening means through each of the said reenforced tabs and the garment, reversing the order of the inverted pocket blank by folding the same at the inner ends of the tabs over the metallic reenforcing means on the line. of the mouth of the pocket thereby covering the metallic fastening means and then seaming the reenforced edges of the pocket blank, exclusive of the mouth portion, to the garment.

3. A patch pocket for garments provided with a hem along a portion of its upper edge terminating at the ends of the hem in spaced relation to the opposite side edges of the pocket, said side edges having hems whose upper portions have reverting ends from the line of the said upper hem of the pocket, rivets securing the pocket to a garment, said rivets extending through said reverting ends of the side hems and being covered and concealed by the upper portions of the said side hems, and seams extending along the side and. bottom edges of the pocket connecting the same to a garment continuously from one rivet to the other. 7

MILTON 'GRUNIBAUM.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Sansome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 11:36am
Thanks Buler^^^ This would seem to maybe rule out exposed rivets and a red tab- assuming that it went into general construction when the patent was filed- how about that- Levi took another patent out on the rivet in 1935- and blocked all other companies from using hidden rivets back pockets for 17 years
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dr_Heech Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 9:02pm
Doesn't suprise me. The Haas/ Koshland partenship was a ruthless business model, but also an effective one.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Foxy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2017 at 11:29pm
Originally posted by Dr_Heech Dr_Heech wrote:

Originally posted by Sansome Sansome wrote:

..So to better answer your question Maynard- we will never know.

...
I'm still scratching my head over why the Levis 501 model changed the yoke panels after 1937 from traditional (where the back leg parts overlap the yoke parts) to the reverse, where like Lee and Wrangler, the yoke panels overlap the back leg parts.
As there was only one factory it seems like experimentation almost, or were some machines set up differently?

And then it went back to the traditional way from '42/'43 onward????

Guess we'll never know the answer to that either.


I would guess it is related to the optimization of work, standardization of folder and sewing machine body types.

for a felled seam they would have used a flat bed sewing machine with a special folder
these folders can be custom-made for both versions of the back yoke seam.

also, left and right arm versions of flat bed sewing machines exist, but the non-standard would obviously be more expensive....

the problem with the back yoke felled seam is that you have a short piece (back yoke) and a long piece (back leg panel) and the seam needs to done "open/top stitched" - which means for the sake of efficiency, quality and convenient handling the short part should feed through under the arm, while the long leg panel is on the open part of the needle.

so my guess is that they previously had special handling or special equipment that got optimized for efficiency, cost reduction, quality improvement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dr_Heech Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 hours 46 minutes ago at 8:38am
Thanks Foxy.
Sorry for the late reply, l was thinking "efficiency".
Since then you got me thinking about machines. Different machines for different jobs, such as a bartacking machine.
Looks like the belt loops were the first use of bartacking on the Levis 501.
When did bartacking come in, late 1910's??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dr_Heech Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 hours 36 minutes ago at 10:48am
As a sidenote, l have a strong feeling that the pocket flap on the 213/506xx was added around 1926/27.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Foxy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 21 minutes ago at 5:03am
Originally posted by Dr_Heech Dr_Heech wrote:

Thanks Foxy.
Sorry for the late reply, l was thinking "efficiency".
Since then you got me thinking about machines. Different machines for different jobs, such as a bartacking machine.
Looks like the belt loops were the first use of bartacking on the Levis 501.
When did bartacking come in, late 1910's??


a quick look into the Singer catalog suggests at least 1920, probably earlier.
machine class 69-x was in the catalog until the mid 50's...other machine manufacturers might predate the Singer model.
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