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Companion Denim

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jmbeane View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 3:29pm
This is my custom pair made by Iu of Companion Denim out of Barcelona.  The fit is certainly a little modern, but I feel like there are a lot of elements here for denimbros to appreciate.  Iu is truly a master craftsman.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mr randal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2014 at 6:52pm
They look good- like the look of the denim, the slightly lower coinpocket, and the fly placket stitching.
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Maynard Fried-San View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maynard Fried-San Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2014 at 12:44am
Further info here:
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jmbeane View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (12) Thanks(12)   Quote jmbeane Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2015 at 3:40pm

Alright guys, Here’s a full detail breakdown of my custom Companion Denim jeans for DWC. 

I went with a custom pattern made to measurements I provided. Luckily I didn't screw anything up, and the fit is exactly what I wanted! I think the materials are everything, and they speak for themselves. 

The denim is an 18oz Super Slubby Japanese denim from Amhot Mills, and this was just about all that Iu could buy. I told myself I’d never buy sanforized again, but the denim has more character in look and feel than many unsanforized fabrics I’ve seen or handled. The pocket bags are a Japanese Hickory stripe. The seam bindings are a European chambray. I’m not sure the origin of the duck canvas on the waistband and fly. I can’t wait to see the inside age just as much as the out. 

The construction is almost entirely 'single needle', but the buttonhole and bartack machine technically only used a single needle as well. The decorative stitching is based on styles of the turn of the century, with some important modern details mixed in. All seams are hand felled and enclosed, so there are no raw edges. The waistband and fly take inspiration from classic tailoring with a split waistband, inside binding, and sew button on the fly. 

The hem is lined with a deadstock hemp rope. The origin of this detail is unclear, but it’s assumed to prevent the hem ripping from using cowboy boots. Whatever the original purpose, more strength is undeniable. I imagine there will be less of a ‘roping’ effect in the way it ages, but more pronounced and evenly rounded. I’ll probably cut the runoff down a few inches after the first soak just to be safe. I was initially skeptical of the rope hanging there, but It’s grown on me quite a bit, and nice to have some focus on the inseam. Selvedge doesn’t need all the glory! 

The back pockets have hidden rivets and initially tonal arcuates. They are not stitched on, but embroidered and raised, so they will become extremely pronounced as they fade with abrasion. They’re shaped like the classic Companion ‘nerve’ lines, but with loops in the center for a little more decoration. 

The leather Patch was engraved by a leatherworker out of Majorca Island. Each letter was done by hand from a set of rare vintage military stamp letters. It is a natural veg tan that Iu hand oiled and polished the edges. 

The hardware is is all raw copper (excluding the sew button), and the rivets are hand hammered with veg tan leather washers. The standard fly buttons are all casted with a laurel leaf and star. The buckle is a Japanese YKK and looks to be either deadstock or antiqued brass. The sew button is made from Corozo.

It’s hard to tell from the photo’s, but Iu’s finishing throughout is immaculate, even more so impressive on fabrics so heavy. I couldn’t be more honored to represent such an underrated maker. I kind of have a tough time not wetting these jeans when I pull them on. 



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Maynard Fried-San View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maynard Fried-San Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2015 at 4:11pm
Beautiful jeans, thanks for sharing, especially in such detail. The denim doesn't have the typical flat look and sheen associated with sanforization, it looks rough and slubby and well... unsanforized. A special pair indeed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote oomslokop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 4:47am
over-engineered, over the top and i love it! looks like the bastard son of rising sun, heller's cafe and (the old) jack/knife.

indonesian brand elhaus and cmiiw ande whall (can you confirm maynard?) used to do the roped hem as well. i think it used to be a popular trick to get more roping when you haven't got a union special hemmer a few years ago, but i see iu/you must have done it deliberately since he has got a 43200g. it does look pretty.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duke Mantee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 5:11am
The denim does look very very nice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote indigo_eagle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 1:43pm
Great photos, very informative write up and supernice jeans (the fabric, the details, everything).
Thanks.

Was the dress pants like style of the fly with the extra button an option you chose or are does he always do it like that?
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jmbeane View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jmbeane Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 6:47pm
thank ya sirs. The fly was an additional detail, Indigo Eagle. There were a few elements that he wouldn't tell me about until they were in my hands, and that was one of them. We've worked together to design 4 styles, so I was confident that he knew my taste enough to let him run wild.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Slimstraight Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 7:54pm
Love that duck waistband.
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