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Bluebell's 'Wrangler' thread, originals and repros

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shredwin_206 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote shredwin_206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 2:14pm
Glad to see some updates in this thread. Really surprised how little love Wrangler gets compared to Levis or Lee.
-Edwin
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Majormajor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Majormajor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 3:50am
Originally posted by Dr_Heech Dr_Heech wrote:

^^Thanks Major, I wont be scanning anything from that book again as the last time it broke the spine, but feel free to ask for any specific highlights - I may have a chance to take some clearer snaps.
 
Wasn't born until '68 so I can just remember wearing Wrangler jeans in '75 over in the States Smile
 
My jacket, Page one of this thread, has uneven dot-tacs on the pleats.
 
Don't be shy to post more pics of your Wrangler stuff here.
 
The jacket I bought in the 60's was a 24MJ with twin pockets, which was the only one that seemed to be available in the UK at that time. Contrary to what an earlier post says (unless I'm reading it wrongly), the thing was definitely made from selfedge single twill denim.
 
Sadly, I gave it away! Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (6) Thanks(6)   Quote Majormajor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 4:37pm

Ok, here’s my take on Wrangler Jackets. Certainly overshadowed for many by LS and Lee, in fact the mere diversity of Jackets produced has always fascinated me.


Historically, I find it easiest to split them into the pre-handwarmers and the post-handwarmers. Wrangler were pretty radical in introducing the latter (in around 1950). Despite their largely “Western” marketing, they obviously could see that not ALL their customers rode horses, and that some folks might actually want pockets in their jacket. It took LS and Lee another 20 years to do that, and they both only achieved it by basically ruining the design of their respective jackets. So much kudos to Wrangler!

The thing unique to Wrangler (IMHO) is the vast array of different jackets they produced. I can only put this down to different factories producing their own detail differences, as some details (such as the unique stitched dots) seem to come and go at will.

The other unique feature of Wrangler was their use of the “action back” – far more labour intensive than the simple designs used by LS and Lee. Again, this morphed over the years, so again, well worthy of study.

And they also offered the choice of button or zip fastening on otherwise similar jackets.

Here are some 40’s jackets. Both stitched dots and bar tacks used on double pleats. The pocket height seems to vary from one jacket to another.
 

Then we have some 50’s jackets. Despite the appearance of bar tacks on the earlier jackets, here the stitched dots are back. Still variances in pocket height (the jacket on the left is a kid’s jacket – hence what appear to be huge pockets – it’s just the jacket is smaller).

 
However, some DID have bigger pockets – here’s a 1947 11MJ – low down, and bigger….
 

In around 1950, the first handwarmer pockets were introduced, with the loss of one top pocket(now smaller) and single, rather than double pleats.

And then, in around 1960, another big change – the pockets were now sewn into the chest seam – maybe to stop the haphazard pocket placing of previous years!  And we are back to two top pockets. It is worth noting the large arc shape of the handwarmer top seam.

By 1970, the pocket seam had moved closer to the pocket cutout, like the one I have.


And all along, you could choose button or zip fastening….
Then we have the “action back” – the earliest version had two sets of elastic sewn inside the jacket – one set beside the tops of the sleeves, and another set at midriff/true waist height. The outside featured a “bi-swing” pleat at each side of the back – thus enabling a tighter fit whilst allowing a lot of movement. Perfect for yer Cowboy! The outside of the midriff was rouched over the elastic to avoid sagging. A neat arrangement.

The next style (around 1947) kept the upper back arrangement, but the lower elastic was deleted, and replaced with two strap adjusters  on the outside at midriff level. This still achieved the same result. But was, I guess, a little cheaper to produce. Here’s the back of a 1947 jacket.

The next version kept the “bi-swing”/elastic arrangement on the shoulders (albeit a little lower), but the midriff adjusters  disappeared in favour of regular two button tabs on the waistband, and rear seams to slim down the overall profile. Here’s mine…

And at sometime, the elastic disappeared altogether. Now here is an interesting thing. The jacket I had in the 60’s (around 1967) had NO elastic or bi-swing, it just had regular waistband tabs. And it had NO pleats on the front.  And yet the jacket I have now, which dates from the early 70’s DOES have elastic/ bi-swing , and single pleats.


Again, I can only put this down  to regionalised production. Perhaps they realised that there were few cowboys in the UK, so why not save a few pennies and dispense with the action back and the pleats? I certainly never saw one back then, but they were plainly available in the US…..

I’m not gonna discuss the later jackets that ape type 3s and 101js – no point, really!

 

 



Edited by Majormajor - 01 Feb 2016 at 5:27pm
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Blackadder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Blackadder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2016 at 8:12am
I have this same Wrangler vintage repro. by Edwin.  I think it is described by Edwin as the 1st Prototype and the jacket has been modified and finalised by 1950.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2016 at 10:44am
Nice post major Thumbs Up
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Denimetc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Denimetc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2016 at 11:40am
Thx Major. IRC the 1947 11MJ had the Box pleats and different neck tag plus no "action back" vents. So I think the jackt you have above is 1949 or after. Also the waist elastics only came in the 11MJZ (Zipper) jacket in the late 1950's.
Too much Denim - too little time...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Majormajor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2016 at 12:35pm
Originally posted by Denimetc Denimetc wrote:

Thx Major. IRC the 1947 11MJ had the Box pleats and different neck tag plus no "action back" vents. So I think the jackt you have above is 1949 or after. Also the waist elastics only came in the 11MJZ (Zipper) jacket in the late 1950's.
 
Hi Detc
 
I think you are right on the "47". It is labelled as that in the reference book, but looking at the label, it is more likely early 50s.
 
Re the waist elastics, here's some pics of a button front with waist elastics:
 
 
I just think the things got made in so many different places that exact chronology is impossible. It beats me, anyway... Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Denimetc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 12:25am
I think you're right Major. It is rather confusing indeed and Wrangler seems to be much less researched than Levis or Lee even.

There is a japanese site (blog?) that has tons of pictures of different vintage models and repros
http://wrangler.jugem.jp/
Too much Denim - too little time...
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Maynard Fried-San View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maynard Fried-San Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 12:52am
Nice looking 11MJ for sale here
Helixing my inner beanie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Majormajor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 4:20am
Originally posted by Maynard Fried-San Maynard Fried-San wrote:

Nice looking 11MJ for sale here
 
Nice one. I've had stuff from him in the past - good seller.
 
There is also just one still for sale at Aero .
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