![]() |
Bluebell's 'Wrangler' thread, originals and repros |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <1 23456 14> |
Author | |
shredwin_206 ![]() whiskered ![]() anonymous Joined: 16 Jun 2015 Location: Everett, WA Status: Offline Points: 7666 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Glad to see some updates in this thread. Really surprised how little love Wrangler gets compared to Levis or Lee.
-Edwin
|
|
![]() |
|
Majormajor ![]() whiskered ![]() Joined: 08 Feb 2013 Location: Heavy Wool Dist Status: Offline Points: 2114 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The jacket I bought in the 60's was a 24MJ with twin pockets, which was the only one that seemed to be available in the UK at that time. Contrary to what an earlier post says (unless I'm reading it wrongly), the thing was definitely made from selfedge single twill denim. Sadly, I gave it away!
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
Majormajor ![]() whiskered ![]() Joined: 08 Feb 2013 Location: Heavy Wool Dist Status: Offline Points: 2114 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Ok, here’s my take on Wrangler Jackets. Certainly overshadowed for many by LS and Lee, in fact the mere diversity of Jackets produced has always fascinated me. Historically, I find it easiest to split them into the pre-handwarmers and the post-handwarmers. Wrangler were pretty radical in introducing the latter (in around 1950). Despite their largely “Western” marketing, they obviously could see that not ALL their customers rode horses, and that some folks might actually want pockets in their jacket. It took LS and Lee another 20 years to do that, and they both only achieved it by basically ruining the design of their respective jackets. So much kudos to Wrangler! The thing unique to Wrangler (IMHO) is the vast array of different jackets they produced. I can only put this down to different factories producing their own detail differences, as some details (such as the unique stitched dots) seem to come and go at will. The other unique feature of Wrangler was their use of the “action back” – far more labour intensive than the simple designs used by LS and Lee. Again, this morphed over the years, so again, well worthy of study. And they also offered the choice of button or zip fastening on otherwise similar jackets. Here are some 40’s jackets. Both stitched dots and bar tacks used on double pleats. The pocket height seems to vary from one jacket to another. ![]() Then we have some 50’s jackets. Despite the appearance of bar tacks on the earlier jackets, here the stitched dots are back. Still variances in pocket height (the jacket on the left is a kid’s jacket – hence what appear to be huge pockets – it’s just the jacket is smaller). ![]() However, some DID have bigger pockets – here’s a 1947 11MJ – low down, and bigger…. ![]() In around 1950, the first handwarmer pockets were introduced, with the loss of one top pocket(now smaller) and single, rather than double pleats. ![]() And then, in around 1960, another big change – the pockets were now sewn into the chest seam – maybe to stop the haphazard pocket placing of previous years! And we are back to two top pockets. It is worth noting the large arc shape of the handwarmer top seam. ![]() By 1970, the pocket seam had moved closer to the pocket cutout, like the one I have. ![]()
![]() The next style (around 1947) kept the upper back arrangement, but the lower elastic was deleted, and replaced with two strap adjusters on the outside at midriff level. This still achieved the same result. But was, I guess, a little cheaper to produce. Here’s the back of a 1947 jacket. ![]() The next version kept the “bi-swing”/elastic arrangement on the shoulders (albeit a little lower), but the midriff adjusters disappeared in favour of regular two button tabs on the waistband, and rear seams to slim down the overall profile. Here’s mine… ![]() And at sometime, the elastic disappeared altogether. Now here is an interesting thing. The jacket I had in the 60’s (around 1967) had NO elastic or bi-swing, it just had regular waistband tabs. And it had NO pleats on the front. And yet the jacket I have now, which dates from the early 70’s DOES have elastic/ bi-swing , and single pleats. Again, I can only put this down to regionalised production. Perhaps they realised that there were few cowboys in the UK, so why not save a few pennies and dispense with the action back and the pleats? I certainly never saw one back then, but they were plainly available in the US….. I’m not gonna discuss the later jackets that ape type 3s and 101js – no point, really!
Edited by Majormajor - 01 Feb 2016 at 5:27pm |
|
![]() |
|
Blackadder ![]() whiskered ![]() Joined: 03 Feb 2016 Status: Offline Points: 475 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have this same Wrangler vintage repro. by Edwin. I think it is described by Edwin as the 1st Prototype and the jacket has been modified and finalised by 1950.
|
|
![]() |
|
Double 0 Soul ![]() whiskered ![]() ![]() anonymous Joined: 14 Feb 2013 Location: Yonder Status: Offline Points: 42971 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nice post major
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
Denimetc ![]() whiskered ![]() ![]() anonymous Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Location: 60N Status: Offline Points: 8919 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thx Major. IRC the 1947 11MJ had the Box pleats and different neck tag plus no "action back" vents. So I think the jackt you have above is 1949 or after. Also the waist elastics only came in the 11MJZ (Zipper) jacket in the late 1950's.
|
|
Too much Denim - too little time...
|
|
![]() |
|
Majormajor ![]() whiskered ![]() Joined: 08 Feb 2013 Location: Heavy Wool Dist Status: Offline Points: 2114 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi Detc I think you are right on the "47". It is labelled as that in the reference book, but looking at the label, it is more likely early 50s. Re the waist elastics, here's some pics of a button front with waist elastics: ![]() I just think the things got made in so many different places that exact chronology is impossible. It beats me, anyway...
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
Denimetc ![]() whiskered ![]() ![]() anonymous Joined: 24 Oct 2013 Location: 60N Status: Offline Points: 8919 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I think you're right Major. It is rather confusing indeed and Wrangler seems to be much less researched than Levis or Lee even.
There is a japanese site (blog?) that has tons of pictures of different vintage models and repros http://wrangler.jugem.jp/ |
|
Too much Denim - too little time...
|
|
![]() |
|
Maynard Fried-San ![]() whiskered ![]() anonymous Joined: 21 Jan 2012 Location: London Taan Status: Offline Points: 17127 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nice looking 11MJ for sale here
|
|
Helixing my inner beanie
|
|
![]() |
|
Majormajor ![]() whiskered ![]() Joined: 08 Feb 2013 Location: Heavy Wool Dist Status: Offline Points: 2114 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nice one. I've had stuff from him in the past - good seller. There is also just one still for sale at Aero .
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <1 23456 14> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |