Bluebell's 'Wrangler' thread, originals and repros

Ok, here’s my take on Wrangler Jackets. Certainly overshadowed for many by LS and Lee, in fact the mere diversity of Jackets produced has always fascinated me.

Then we have some 50’s jackets. Despite the appearance of bar tacks on the earlier jackets, here the stitched dots are back. Still variances in pocket height (the jacket on the left is a kid’s jacket – hence what appear to be huge pockets – it’s just the jacket is smaller).

In around 1950, the first handwarmer pockets were introduced, with the loss of one top pocket(now smaller) and single, rather than double pleats.

And then, in around 1960, another big change – the pockets were now sewn into the chest seam – maybe to stop the haphazard pocket placing of previous years!  And we are back to two top pockets. It is worth noting the large arc shape of the handwarmer top seam.

By 1970, the pocket seam had moved closer to the pocket cutout, like the one I have.

And all along, you could choose button or zip fastening….
Then we have the “action back” – the earliest version had two sets of elastic sewn inside the jacket – one set beside the tops of the sleeves, and another set at midriff/true waist height. The outside featured a “bi-swing” pleat at each side of the back – thus enabling a tighter fit whilst allowing a lot of movement. Perfect for yer Cowboy! The outside of the midriff was rouched over the elastic to avoid sagging. A neat arrangement.

The next style (around 1947) kept the upper back arrangement, but the lower elastic was deleted, and replaced with two strap adjusters  on the outside at midriff level. This still achieved the same result. But was, I guess, a little cheaper to produce. Here’s the back of a 1947 jacket.

The next version kept the “bi-swing”/elastic arrangement on the shoulders (albeit a little lower), but the midriff adjusters  disappeared in favour of regular two button tabs on the waistband, and rear seams to slim down the overall profile. Here’s mine…

And at sometime, the elastic disappeared altogether. Now here is an interesting thing. The jacket I had in the 60’s (around 1967) had NO elastic or bi-swing, it just had regular waistband tabs. And it had NO pleats on the front.  And yet the jacket I have now, which dates from the early 70’s DOES have elastic/ bi-swing , and single pleats.